RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi, here is my RC10. This car is really fun to drive. Please let me know if you have any comments or questions. RC10_1.jpg <Front> RC10_2.jpg ・Add weight 10g on the nose plate and 20g right by the steering servo ・Front bumper from Shapeway (rapid_rc) ・Extended front shock tower from Carbon works (3m...

Yokomo bone was introduced below topic. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34582&start=45 I simply used Associated CVD coupler (#7381). Yokomo has discontinued B-MAX2 bone. The new one is Z2-010RB2 (for YZ-2CA) and length is 62mm. I just received this bone from Yokomo as a substitu...

<RC10 ver.2> RC10_15.jpg This RC10 is rebuilt from the RC10 in page 1. The battery is installed longitudinally. <Front> RC10_11.jpg ・Add 20g weight right by the steering servo ・Front bumper from Shapeway (rapid_rc) ・Extended front shock tower from Carbon works (3mm) ・0.89 V2 shocks with big bore spr...

<RC10 ver.3> RC10_16.jpg This RC10 is newly built. The battery is installed in the transverse direction. For me, this car is best because it turns well, has good rear traction and jump is easy. I will describe how I set the car which will be answer to Asso_man! and popboy905 (thank you very much for...

<RC10 laydown ver.2> Short wheel base version of the laydown mid-motor RC10. NDS chassis + RC10 nose plate & front A arm + flipped rear arm = RC10 with the very short wheelbase. RC10_laydown_ver2_1.jpg It took me a while to stabilize this car on a sandy clay indoor track. I think that "GT c...

<RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB)> RC10B1.5SWB_1.jpg Next car is B1.5 with a short wheelbase as explained by Scr8p in https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16535&sid=e5c394c52fe3847000d0910fd6176780 and https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=10842&start=210 Weight distribution RC10B1.5SWB...

I replaced the first video to the shorter one. My apology for confusion.

How to shorten the T2 chassis was explained by scr8p as follows “it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the fron...

Another video
https://youtu.be/BKBG7rQjPj8

<RC10B3> I try to keep the car as stock as possible. Previous owner converted many screws to metric. I add many weights. The servo, battery and ECS are inline. RC10B3_1.jpg RC10B3_2.jpg <Front> ・Big bore shock spring (Associated V1 gray or blue) and B6.1 spring cup ・#32.5 oil and #2 piston. Shock po...

<RC10 B3 Final> I added the shaft boots. I changed to use the center hole on the hub and outer hole on the chassis. The car becomes quicker with 1mm shorter upper camber link. RC10B3_8.jpg To tighten the ball stud from the front side on the chassis, the nylon lock nuts (in red circles below) need to...

<RC10Mid Ver.2 Final> I felt that the car bounced too much. I changed the rear shock oil from ASC30 to ASC27.5 and added weights shown in the picture below. Then, the total weight was 1562 g with a thin shorty Lipo battery. RC10MID_12.jpg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhaWYPo1j9A MhaWYPo1j9A Pleas...

Thank you for your comment. I did not shoot video after removing 10g... I added weights and used the lighter oil to stabilize the car on bumpy surface. Those worked well but the car lost agility (spread weight distribution), turned less in corners (increased rear grip and rearward weight bias) and n...

My friend's RC10 as shown in page 5. He replaced the world's re-re chassis to C stamp. https://youtu.be/OVrS_7Ih5dw OVrS_7Ih5dw https://youtu.be/cMXGQ3v-11U cMXGQ3v-11U Weight distribution is similar to my RC10 Ver. 3 in page 4. But he uses the original rear hub carrier, Kyosho big bore shocks, and ...

<RC10Mid Ver.2>

I changed additional weight positions for the track in above videos (because of jumps).