RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I think we all agree; speed is nice but what we really want is overall quality. Your initial print appears nearly identical to what has been printed on X1. If it requires an extra minute or two, I can live with that. Can't wait to see your TPU test prints from the A1. :D Well, I'm reluctant to say ...

I ended up removing my design where the bearings were centered and went to a premade design where the roll was sitting on the bearings and that solved my issue. With the Bambu my filament resides either in the ams or inside a filament dryer with rollers

This is planned for a TPU highly flexible and elastic and from the feedbacks I got from a friend used to print this type of material, it might be required... I'll try this way, if it doesn't work or unwind the filament, I'll change the design... And for the ball bearing, I designed a printed one... ...

This is planned for a TPU highly flexible and elastic and from the feedbacks I got from a friend used to print this type of material, it might be required... I'll try this way, if it doesn't work or unwind the filament, I'll change the design... And for the ball bearing, I designed a printed one......

Finally got around to painting the brand new body for my hornet show car. Spaz Stix candy apple red on the body and mirror chrome on the wing. It's not perfect, but for a first time I think it's pretty good.

I've actually tried to print the bearing, but it did not work. In the first version, the rolls were not having enough surface to the bed to adhere well, and once one is gone, the print is going to be a nightmare. I stopped the print before it went nuts. https://i.imgur.com/pPCzlit.jpeg I modified it...

Yes, shorter chassis pan. https://i.imgur.com/Ewxd1Wp.jpg The problem is that cross bar they say to cut out, is what holds up the rear of the Manx body, it also is right where the other half of the pipe joint goes. https://i.imgur.com/ncDm2SF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TXdloNT.jpg https://i.imgur.com/U...

Nice work! Headed over there to print this one out, and be back for a fitting update. Thanks!!

I put a lot of efforts to make this easy to use and print, with a few modifications in the parts to remove the supports requirement during the print. At the end, I had only one part where it was still required. I included some material to be removed post print to avoid supports. I also included smal...

No leaky shocks to report yet, on the real thing either. :D Hard to say where the rear should sit, if the rear tires are larger than the front. I would guess that with the rear shocks attached, the rear arms should be level, or parallel with the chassis. That seems like it might be the place to star...

XLR8 , my mistake, I gave you the wrong dimensions when I said the pipe joint was where the crossbar was, it was lower, that's why the shock was too short earlier. Also wasn't thinking this is PLA, and easy to make it work. https://i.imgur.com/1y9jiE5.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Qf2uDOn.jpg Will get th...

I'm happy to report that my very first print was a success. :mrgreen: P1010059.JPG The transmission housing required only 1 hour and 10 minutes to print and the P1S wasn't as noisy as I thought it would be. :D HALLELUJAH !!!! Miracles DO happen!!!! :mrgreen: Just kidding, happy you got it to work.

You broke the "first print 3DBenchy" rule!!!

It's clear to me that updating the firmware is a critical first step in my case and the printer will need to connect to the web to accomplish that step. At the moment, the printer is connected to my laptop via LAN-only mode. The QIDI is able to update Firmware from an SD card, do Bambu give you tha...

Apparently, the X1's firmware can be updated via SD but not the P1 -- at least not yet. Exiting LAN-only mode does not free-up access to the web. Bambu Support had me create a cfg file on the SD card that contains my LAN sign-in credentials. The printer reads the cfg upon boot-up and I no longer se...