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Both bushings are identical: ID x OD x HT - .125(1/8") x .2(13/64") x .125(1/8") The originals are teflon(PTFE) the ReRe are something else.

FullSizeRender.jpg I remember having a really hard time with the tiny screws and allen key. Well that was 32 years ago. This is the easy way to get those little 0-80 x3/16" things in. The 0.35" allen key is a little fiddly! Just get a 0.9mm MIP allen driver makes getting them in a breeze....

Great work so far.

If you look closely at the photos in the stealth book by Steve Hustings you will notice an "L" on the left rear hub carrier. (page 28)
That makes it a 1.5 deg as was standard on CE and Team car. Only short arm cars have zero deg rear hubs (no "L").

Lovely looking car, so much work must have gone into it!
I have a tender spot for this pre team car era, that goes from the opps what wrong at the 87 worlds until the release of the team car.
I really like the earlier 88 roar nationals car that Jason has almost finished ;P

Lathe work looks first rate

Did you use aluminum 4-40 nuts on the turnbuckles? How did you attach them?
I'm sourcing parts and hoping to get a chassis set from Jake once they are ready.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 03, 2018 12:28 pm So, what would a Kinwald style bulkhead look like?

Something like this.

Amazing project XLR8!!! A real inspiration!

My unconscious self is doing the same thing motivated by your mad skills.

My conscious self is dragging his feet hoping for Jake to do round two.

The car looks lovely, lots of work to get this done, more importantly a lot of motivation.
My Hero

Hello and welcome to rc10talk. :D Lovely looking car, a few bits of advice: Old speed controls always seem to work, nevertheless I would not go to crazy with motors nothing over a 27 stock motor for prolonged running. Your best bet for wheels and tires is to g for JC racing wheels which work with or...

Hello, I've been working on this for a few months now and I wanted to do something a little different. There was a thread here which talked about how many stealth cars where fielded at the 1991 Detroit Worlds. I believe the number was 15 or 16. Anyhow photos have only surfaced for maybe 5 or 6 six o...

That looks really good. Did you dye all the printed parts or are you leaving them as is to naturally yellow? I apologize, I really need to learn how to take photos, most of you here are real pros. The parts have been dyed with Nescafe, It took a while and many scrap pieces to test on before I figur...

So you are making the stickers yourself? Can you please give us a brief how-to? The basic steps are covered Here https://mciracing.ca/p/design-your-own-decals A quick example: The peak performance marauder motor label, I have an original but I used it as a learning exercise. first you need a pictur...

^^XxRONNxX Thanks for the offer of scanning the Peak decals. I don't plan on going too crazy with the body and decals. I ended up making a compromise and ordered a turbo mirage body with the scoop. The shipping fron the US made the scoopless body 20 bucks more expensive. If you cant find the team or...

Hey guys, thanks. I eventually popped it off by wedging a plastic scraper in there. I didn't want to get any solvents on the plastic pasts, and was disassembling so I could dunk all the metal parts in kerosene, which is what I do most of my cleaning with. I used to scrub plastics with kerosene too,...

This has been moving forward. The bodyshell was a complete disaster, I hate painting and suck at! It had bleeds all over, and I'm too embarrassed to post it. :oops: Just as well it was a turbo mirage with scoop not really the right body. The decals, that was a partial disaster, getting what you see ...