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Doesn't the shaft that appears through that set screw hole have a flat machined on it? Yes it does but the set screw doesn't seem to reach it as the part without the hole is partially blocking it. I think u can make out what I am saying in the pic.... the top part of where the hole is. The gear see...

Thanks for the reply. I see what you are saying. I guess I need to first see if I can pull the shaft out of the way a little or if it is fixed in place. As u can see from the pic, it is blocking the set screw slightly. If it can't move..... i will Dremel the set screw if it looks like that will help...

Any thoughts?

Very nice. Looks like fun! Look forward to updates.

I might have a rr knuckle arm but it is sloppy.... i replaced them all 20 plus years ago as they kind of wore out.... some were worse than others. I can check to see how bad it is. The stock dogbones are total crap and will wear out sooner or later too. I have the originals and the plastic is beyond...

Ok guys, I think I may have found what is wrong. When I was running the car sometimes the gearbox would slip and other times it wouldn't. It never seemed to make sense as the set screw seemed to have no control over it. Well, when I was looking at it now the shaft was locked in place again which was...

DennisM wrote:You can mount the spur now - then put the white spacer in the spur, then the bearing, next the washer and finally the o-ring.

The best would be two flanged bearings - then there´s no need for the spacer.

Thanks!

go to competitionx.com and download the manual to start. the ultima series used a plastic final pinion with a pin and hole set up. you have an optima style metal final pinion that would normally mate up to a top shaft that had notch in the shaft. you can either get the correct final pinion or file ...

Well, I got the gearbox out and cleaned everything up.... there was lots of dirt and grit around it.... but now i am a little lost. The diff seems to grab tight and takes a decent amount of effort to spin the rear hubs different directions. The set screw seems to be the issue. Even when screwed in a...

I adjusted the screw in the diff the other day. When i drove the car today, it off and on would slip so bad the car wouldn't move. I tightened it all the way and the car drove ok for a free min but then it started slipping again. I kept fooling with it and sometimes even when the set screw was as t...

I have had this one for about 4 years now and still works perfect. For the price it is a great deal. It only charges one battery though. You will need to get a AC power adaptor or power supply for it. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Acces...

I agree the numbers are confusing and don't tell the whole story, RPM isn't the best way to measure the actual power of a motor. I do know that I replaced a 23t brushed motor with a 17.5 brushless, and the power was similar. 10.5t may be stretching things comparison wise- I think anything under 17....

In my experience, the mathematic comparisons between brushed and brushless motors (i.e. - comparing their kV values) never seems to explain the true real world performance differences between brushed and brushless. What I'm trying to say is basically that a high quality, freshly trued, and carefull...

Thanks for the info guys. When i get some time I will have to drive into it deeper. I am not sure what kind of diff it has. It has some aftermarket parts on it and it is a pro XL. I really don't know what I am looking at but will learn. It does have a spring on one of the dogbones and the other dogb...

Anywhere from 17.5 to 21T is the equiv. of a "stock" brushed motor. Your 15x4 is turning around 27,000rpm, doing the math kv=rpm/v the equiv. brushless would be 3500-3700kv. Depending on the manufacturer, a 10.5-13.5T would get you in that ballpark. I have a sensorless tacon 3500kv that i...