RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Thanks you Shodog :) I am expecting my screw kit and bearing set to be delivered tomorrow. Hoping to get some assembly done this weekend. I sent some picks to a local machine shop that offers Bright Dip anodizing services. I'm hoping the minimum charge isn't to expensive and I can get the parts anod...

I have some Permatex white lithium grease, would that be suitable for the differential gears in the gearbox? I would rather use something I already have here, but if it won't work I can buy something specially for that.

I am not a fan of the cast aluminum either, but I guess it is what it is. It seems very fragile and I was pretty uncomfortable removing the old bearings out of the gear casing. I have seen Pargu's aluminum rear cage and that would be a great upgrade for an already awesome buggy. Considering what an ...

I initially started with SOS pads and the parts came out very clean. That is one of the best ways to clean aluminum. However, after I cleaned them I noticed some deep scratches and gouges in some of the pieces. I used wet sandpaper on those parts to get them back to new looking. I have been looking ...

Ah, there it is! I was looking for that on eBay this morning. If my dye doesn't work out, I will have to drop the $20 for that new one. Thanks

I do my dye inside, but I lay down drop clothes everywhere and use rubber gloves. I went to a local thrift shop and got a pot and strainer just for dying. I keep the dye/water under 200 degrees to keep from splattering (usually about 175 degrees). I got a meat thermometer rigged up for the dying to ...

I am going to have to study up on the liquid mask. I never knew it existed, let alone use it. Do you apply the number of masking coats based on the number of different colors you will be using? I am going to be doing something VERY basic since it will be my first time. I guess worst case scenario, y...

Okay, thanks guys. I sent another message about purchasing some. I know they are expensive, but I have seen pics of them on a Tomahawk and they are just gorgeous! I am planning on trying to dye my upper servo deck today. I think it is fiberglass and may have to set in the dye much longer than plasti...

I haven't seen the rims @ Pargu with the black centers, but that is what I really want. I have sent a few emails, but never got a response. If I drop $50 on something else, I will later wish I had just got the good ones.

Hcp22 wrote:The only period correct rims are Tamiya like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-7-alloy-wheel-for-tamiya-FAV-fast-attack-vehicle-buggy-champ-rough-rider-SRB-/130855315011?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item1e7795a643

Thanks Lars. Those look better than most rims I have seen

Thanks for the help Kevin

Got the driver doll and body ordered from TBG. Figured I would order now since it will be a few weeks before it arrives. Everything seems to be coming along nicely. My main priority now is finding rims. I wish I could order some from Pargu, but the price is just a bit steep for me (although I may ha...

teman wrote:That's the correct paint, says polycarb on the can. Keep in mind if you're doing fluorescent colors, you need to back it with white.

You're saying put a few coats of white over the final color?

I wanted to go with a Kawasaki green for the color. I have found an original Polycolor chart and see that Tamiya makes a paint similar to that color (PS28). Would these polycarbonate paints be suitable with Lexan or do I need a paint specifically for Lexan? http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-fini...

I've been working on the rear guard. One holder was cracked and the other was completely broke: http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/ae206/hiddenrebelbase/Kyosho%20Circuit%201000/DSC03449_zps6453ade9.jpg After several layers of JB Weld, I finally have something to work with: http://i972.photobucket.co...