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For a track that tight, a 7.5T is ludicrous in any car. You probably would have been faster with a 13.5T, plus you'd be less likely to tear your gears up. Frankly, I'm surprised your spur gear went before the splines on the diff outdrives.

Very nice. Countdown to "are you gonna run it?" in 3...2..1...

Yeah, metallics are a pain. My only success with them was to use very, very thin coats, and gradually make them thicker with each pass, letting each pass dry before doing another pass. Do that after warming the body up first, for each pass. The warm body helps the paint re-flow a bit to reduce non-u...

I had a feeling you were going to pick that body up ;) I'm glad it didn't go for an arm and a leg. One thing about the older Kyosho bodies (and I'm sure some other older bodies as well) is the lack of a protective film over the outside. I'm very used to using a sharpie to draw my patterns on the pro...

We already have a Classic 4wd class which includes the exact cars you listed, so adding yet another 4wd class with silver can only would not be realistic given the current program schedule. I would focus solely on a Classic 2wd class here, with a few edits: 1.) Expand the example list to also includ...

Does anyone know if RCCA or any other publication put a report together for this?

My proposal would be to have a silver can 2wd class for cars excluding the RC10 stealth (AE), XX (Losi), Pro-X (Kyosho), TRX-3 (Traxxas), and Cougar 2000 (Schumacher). Chassis from these manufacturers which precede those generations may still be competitive in standard 2wd in the right hands, but re...

Well right now there is nothing keeping that car out of the regular 2wd class. It's just outclassed by better cars more commonly used there. This is why the Classic 4wd class was created, in order to have a place for older 4wd buggies that don't stack up against cars like the XX4. That's not to say ...

I would put it more simply and suggest taking the RC10s and JRxs from Classic and putting them into a separate "Classic 2wd" class, with silver cans (or sport tuned...whatever...doesn't matter) and no tire limitation. I wouldn't put a "year" cutoff on it, as there is a bit of a g...

I think such a class should extend beyond Tamiya chassis, as for example there are some older Kyosho Ultimas, or even the Triumph, which are better served in a silver can class than in the standard 2wd buggy class. If silver can (or sport tuned) is the only motor, then there's really no need to limi...

I think a Tamiya-specific class would be a great idea, although it's a question of how to fit it into the program. My general preference would be to take the Classic class and split that into 2wd and 4wd, and then expand the rules a bit to allow the 2wd class to run modern tires and generally allow ...

Use the trick I posted in the other thread. It makes an enormous difference. Most of the bind comes from the mesh between the center diff gear and the input gear. Using a different combination of bearings on the input shaft to allow it to float while also keeping wobble at a minimum will free up the...

I've been playing around with the SST nitro gearbox (Rampage Pro, Outlaw Rampage Pro), trying to resolve the same gear mesh issue. It's really a crap shoot with these things, as sometimes they're smooth and other times they're not. The floating input shaft (with a "guider" bearing on the o...

Damn, son...

Those purple shock caps are nice.

Very nice. The drill mod on the rear gearbox is only "necessary" if you use the stock self-tapping screws. They tap a new thread each time you screw them in, and so with enough use, there's no more thread to tap and so it fits loosely. If you just use standard M3 screws from the start, the...