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I was debating powder coating, since it's more readily available, but my concern was matching the gold.
BTW, that's not a bad price for the work, H.P.

Thanks for the great info...lots of good stuff there. I was wondering if it would be worth it for me to change over, since I'm not into racing anymore.

Looks like a good time...I can't wait to see them run.

Speaking of motors, I've been seeing a lot of "Birdman" brushed motors on ebay, but I can't find any info on them. Anyone know about these?

Joel,
I saw that chassis on ebay. If it were mine, I would have it re-anodized as close to original as I could, since most of the prep work has been done. I've been debating doing that with my build. Personally, I think the gold tub is a "mandatory trademark"....but that's just me.

PBR, I understand your point about remaining competitive, as I don't know what the competition was like in your part of the country. Most of us rotated batteries much in the same way you were talking about, but they lasted all season. This was back in the mid to late 80's, and the local track drew a...

Back when I raced, we had a Sportsman class (frogs, hornets, fox), Trucks (Blackfoot, Lunch Box with 6cell), Stock (RC10, JRX2, Ultima with 6cell and ROAR stock motor), 2WD and 4WD Mod (7cell open). Our track started an "outlaw oval" night for the more experienced guys. There were only 6ce...

The dye job turned out nice. Looks like a really good project, so far (except for that chassis). The Hot Trick front plate is a really cool addition. I liked the one I had. It made a noticeable difference to me in stability when I raced oval.

Merry Christmas.

Russ

Joel, Those are the inline blocks, as you will need the front axles, as well. I'm not sure which car you have, but the early RC10's had offset front blocks, and used different axles. Also, they were white, so you may want to check with someone who is more of an historian on those blocks. This is an ...

Could it be one of those old diff pinning kits? I've never used one, so I don't know what it looks like installed.

Soncho Ponza wrote:What dye did you use to get that fiberglass so dark and even, and how long did you dye it for...nice build

Thanks...I just used Rit powdered dye and kept the parts on low heat for about an hour.

Eau Rouge - Got it, thanks.

Thanks for the tip on the posts... The ones I got are from Associated. I'm not sure which car they're made for, as the package didn't specify. They're different from my TC4, and were the only servo blocks I could find at the LHS...I think they'll work fine for now.

I've pretty much run the whole spectrum of cars over the years, both electric and nitro, so my experience varies. My current stable has been trimmed down to: Associated TC4 Losi Mini T Pro Associated RC10 (6gear) As far as my racing favorite: 2WD buggies or sprint cars on a dirt oval... (I'm too bad...

I've managed to put a little work into the car....dye job, rebuilt shocks, diff, and hardware. I picked up a spur gear (48p/81t) from RJSpeed that's a direct bolt on for the 6gear (part #5581). I've also found some black 2.2" front and rear rims for the 1/4" axles (just waiting for the mai...

I don't know about the older rim size working, there was a distinct advantage with a 2.2 rear tire in 1989 called the TR31 :wink: Back around '88-'89, there were a few companies making 2.2 wheels for the RC10 and JRX2, in order to use Schumacher and Yoko tires. They were popular at our track, becau...