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Thanks for the feedback.

So I need shorter shocks at the front (so I can get the roll bar back on) and shorter, stiffer springs too.

Which make could I use? (sorry I don't have any originals!)

OK I give up... I really need help setting up the shocks in my Procat. It's been running well (transmission's holding up and even raced it a bit at Stotfold) but I can't seem to get it to handle or land right. I'm probably fighting a losing battle (I'll probably get a modern car next summer) but I'm...

I feel the old Procat chassis has a lot of flex... it is well twisty compared to my mate's DB01-R. Anyway, I want to stiffen it up and I wonder if anyone has one of those alloy H-shaped brackets that go between the upper and lower decks (also doubles as the servo mount) I had one long ago but sold i...

You can see here the trays / brackets are narrower but made from thicker carbon. The Procat undertray fits over these. Fibre-Lyte did a nice job of the machining. The carbon's only 3mm wide but 4mm deep. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m134/kaszal/IMG_9555.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...

Hi Eric Sorry, been so busy this is the first proper chance I got to reply! I run a 5.5 and so far it been fine with the 6.6v battery. 1 volt makes a difference but it's still enough power for me. We have to accept the original fine pitch belts and diffs aren't designed for 5.5 motors with 7.4v Lipo...

Ran it yesterday in the rain! Seals held up really well. Didn't have greens minispikes so was slipping all over the place. Was a second or two behind the faster cars e.g Cat SX and Predator. Suspension is still not right e.g. oil and springs. I also want to use the slimmer Procat body but need to fi...

I got the idea for the strips after splitting an undertray in a crash. I also had another amazing idea... don't crash! Fibre-Lyte's stuff is great and they are really helpful.... but I'm sure you know, the most important thing to get right is the transmission if you're going to run it. Will you race...

My mate treated me to a new Orion Li-Fe battery. Nominal voltage is still 6.6v but it's 60C instead of 35C... and it's blue.

Thanks Eric.

I remember selling you the plates... are you buying the strips too? What are you spending your money on? One can spend an awful lot on these vintage obsessions... I mean projects!

Thanks Chris.... done!

I also sealed it with superglue and put in a shorter pin. The pin had to go upside down. It's held tightly by the upright so I don't think it will work it's way out.

I sealed the undertray and belt cover with single sided black foam tape, which is better than the white draft excluder. A belt hole punch is ideal for putting little holes in the tape for the screws to go through. I also cut out a u-shaped plastic washer so I could clamp the front gearbox tightly wi...

How's this for a late reply... over two years later?

I use a Bosscat rear diff with ceramic balls, 600 sanded washers and 4 large disc springs, Bosscat slipper, BRP orange long belt and MMS front diff. Works sweet.

Thanks Chris I understand the steel could be heat treated to make it tougher but that would cost a little more. I've been using S4203 from Robbe... http://www.rcmarket.org/s4203-pr-2904.html It will do but bends if it takes a hit e.g. from landing from a jump. I guess LHS means local hardware store ...

I could get the bolt pictured above machined in "tool steel" which is stronger than stainless. It will be the right length and be threaded only at the ends. It will be well strong when combined with my new motor plates and it won't bend in the middle of a race. Usual problem with small bat...

All gone now... thanks for everyone who bought a set and look forward to seeing your new vintage rides!