RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

That stuff looks exactly like Plastex (thats the brand name sold here in Australia) and its generally sold by Motorcycle shops for fixing plastic fairings etc. My plastex kit came with the same tub of powder, the same heat in water mould maker etc... FWIW, it is great for fixing fairings and other p...

Just one extra bit of info... as mentioned above, C rating is all about sustained Amps. What this is supposed to mean is that a fully charged pack will deliver the C rating specified while maintaining 3.7V per cell . Thats the critical point. You want to make sure your LiPo's don't drop below 3V or ...

I've had my RC8Be FT for about 8 months now... still LOVING it. So far I've had to straighten the front dogbones (they were starting to vibrate the front wheels) and thats it. I've had some pretty spectacular crashes as this is my first step from a 91 Team Car with a standard 540 motor on NiMh batte...

Just on the subject of punch, its all about current delivery and voltage drop. When switching my Team Car to LiPo, I put my Eagletree datalogger into the car and ran a few of my NiMH packs through it, then did the same with the LiPo. One look at the graphs from the Eagletree tell the whole story (I ...

I know you've already had plenty of feedback but I'll just put my 2 cents worth in too having just gone through the same process. I've got an RC10 Team car with a 6 year old LRP ESC, a new Tamiya Superstock BZ brushed (23T) motor that I've been running NiMH's in. The ESC is still great and I don't m...

I just run mine without the plug in. The track I run on is pretty dusty most of the time. I recently pulled the diff down to replace the thrust balls and the slipper assembly is as clean as it was when I took the bits out of their packets. I think you'd have to be physically scooping dust with the r...

jwscab is correct, I'm definitely talking about "JC Racing" wheels and they're definitely the right offset - I've just double checked the measurement against my original wheels

Here's my RC8Be...



Its a totally different experience to my RC10 Team Car, but I still love to take both with me to the track and alternate them...

A while ago I purchased an eLogger V3 from eagletree to log data in my RC8. Last week I hooked it up in my RC10 with my NiMH battery... Now I understand why people say LiPo is so much better. First though an explanation of LiPo "C" rating as I keep seeing statements which indicate its very...

Cycle your packs a few times, if they don't wake up, buy a lipo and a lipo charger! And then never look back! :lol: That was my plan when I got my car/batteries out after about 8 years sitting in a box... my 2x 3000 mAh NiMH's were giving me about 800 mAh. After about 6 cycles on a cycling charger ...

I just rebuilt mine with that kit, you might want to grab one of the o-ring kits too - just in case you tear an o-ring like I did
Maybe you only need the o-ring kit, although the rebuild kit is only $1.89 more!

RichieRich wrote:Are these wheels something new or are they old stock from deep in a forest in the UK?

Brand spankin' new....

I have a number of sets of those JC Racing ones... Very pleased with them.

You can see the white ones on my buggy here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17100

Might want to take a closer look at your toe-out.... :mrgreen: Surprising how it could still steer quite well even though that right hand front wheel was swinging in the breeze! What style/make wheels are on it ???? They're the JC Racing ones mentioned here http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3...

After sitting in a box for about 18 years, I recently got inspired to ressurect my Team Car. Thanks to the posts here, I did the B4 slipper upgrade, the traxxas ball bearing steering upgrade, found some 2.2" wheels and put some new tyres on and then took it to the local track. This is the first...