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Hi Bormac, I've posted my pics here before. But will post shortly. Now had just finished restoring my Tamiya Striker...

bormac wrote:Brat-when do we get to see pictures of your buggy?

That standard hex in Tamiya kit are mostly 6mm.. I've also visited alot of website but also can't find the 10mm hex you've mentioned. I've checked my Brat and the rear hex should be 8mm. I've found that the Traxxas Offset hex for Stampede fit the shoe. Mmmm...I think the hex for the TB-02 should the...

You can also use RB5 front hex if its slimmer; maybe 4mm? For the rear, you can use Traxxas Stampede hex hub which is 8mm thick and with 5mm centre hole for the rear. I modified some cheap alloy hexes I got off ebay.Yes I drilled them out to 5mm and Im also using the same drive shafts all round.Its ...

Yes, standard alloy hexs will be 6mm thick and 12mm in length... I've modified the Tamiya hexs (6mm thick) to 8mm for the rear and sanded down the standard hex to 4mm thick for the fronts to adapt the Tamiya dish wheels. I've also drilled the center holes to 5mm wide as Tamiya hexes are 4.5mm. But ...

Yes, standard alloy hexs will be 6mm thick and 12mm in length... I've modified the Tamiya hexs (6mm thick) to 10mm for the rear and sanded down the standard hex to 4mm thick for the fronts to adapt the Tamiya dish wheels. I've also drilled the center holes to 5mm wide as Tamiya hexes are 4.5mm. But ...

Hi Mr.Ed, I understand that but the screw threads on the front will not be long enough while the rear screw thread will be too long for the locknuts if standard 6mm hex hubs are used. Hi Bormac, Can you elaborate the use of Kyosho hex hubs with the rims? The Gold Unis have a diameter of 5mm while mo...

Hi Bormac, Can you elaborate the use of Kyosho hex hubs with the rims? The Gold Unis have a diameter of 5mm while most hex hubs are having the standard 4.5mm. Did you drill the centre hole abit? Also, the front wheels need hex hub with 3-4mm thickness while the rear needs 8-9mm thick hex hubs to hav...

This is a Nikko 'Super Gallet' bearing serial number 14065N. It is also been sold as Lobo IV in US and UK. The scale will be 1/14 with the following specs: - 2ch full function: Forward, reverse, left and right and stop (The steering and motor power can be controlled separately); - 2 x 2 speed in for...

Nice paint work there! I'm working on the B4 Killer Bee design on my RC10. Pardon my ignorance, what's the name for your body shell? I like the sleek look!

Hi, any king soul has the specs for Desert Gator body shell? I thought of using it on my gold chassis. Or maybe someone had used it and show a pic over here? I've seen one of the forumer using Sand Viper's body but have not seen the Desert Gator's. Thanks.

I'm not jumping much, yet, as I did not have a body and wing for it until today, and did not want to risk damaging the electronics. The picture below shows the car without batteries, dropped from ~6" above the table with 1/4" of preload spacers. The nose is well below the point where the ...

Oh thanks alot!Think i'll just grind the bottom hole on the blocks with a hand drill. 5/40 lock nuts comes in blue alu? Think I gonna spend $ on another order again...5/40 nuts not available in Singapore..

I'm running mine with the silver fronts and 1/4" preload with totally no bottom on issue. My spring came with my original in 1988. As such, I do not feel that your sping is worn out as I bash alot. I'm using Trinity 35wt shock oil but I do rebulity my shock every now and then, after 3-5 races d...

The major problem is that the alu axles is longer than the steering block as such, the king pin hole is not aligned. The bottom of the alu axles where the mini screws are screwed in hit the botton of the blocks but yet the hole for the king pin for both parts is not in line. Best of all, i've also o...

Yeah 1 more thing. Anyone can advise me on the nut size for the inline axles?