RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Justto confirm, these are 100 degree heads, not 82?

not sure on lengths i like these too, they are cheaper and they are stainless steel http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=324 has a hex head also, makes stripping them hard, unlke the aluminum counterparts, how many people out there at some point had to dremel a s...

What are the common lengths as well? I'm mainly curious on the 2 steering mount screws, as I just had some round head screws use, not the correct ones.....

here is the just painted one it couls use a light sand and touch up but as I plan to run it I wasnt worrierd about it. it had two 1 1/2 inch slots carved in it I guess to move the battery foward and back? plus a lot of holes ? Looks good to me! I just have to sand down my chassis again, and fill a ...

a little expensive but i find i always use up 50x or 100x very quick lol, i order from there every 3 months, their stainless steel screws are great http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=425 A Little more than I needed.....but the head is a 100 degree angle? good...

I need some Philips Chassis screws for my RC10 and my JRXT....I don't care if they are OEM or Aluminum or not, I just want the functionality. Can I get these from a hardware store with the correct countersunk angle?

a orbital sander with the fine sandpaper, not ultra fine, just like the 240+ grit fine. keep the wheel moving and it will take like 2-3 to get the chassis smooth again. if you plan to polish it though, you are gonna need to hand sand it with a ultra fine paper first. then i like to use a Ryobi &quo...

If you have access to a belt sander the scrathes in the bottom can be eliminated in just a few minutes. Don't worry too much about how it looks now. Mine looked like that too - thought I'd never get it clean! I did mine in small steps over a period of days so I wouldn't get burnt out. Did you remem...

Stripped the tub with Oven Cleaner.....I sure have my work cut out for me. The chassis is tweaked a bit, and will need alot of
sanding to get the deep scratches out.....

Stripped the truck down to the Chassis. I just dumped all the other parts in a box for the time being. I have covered 1 side with tape, and currently have a plastic sandable epoxy curing right now on all the excessive holes. Will check it after a day and sand level, and see how it looks from there.....

I really don't want to start another thread, so will ask here. What is different between the JRXT and Jrx2? I think I would rather clean this up as a Jrx2 shelfer, as that is my favorite car of my racing past. The one I got has RPM front & rear arms (not the sides) and say truck on them for the ...

Got it today....oh, I have my work cut out for me....I already have it torn down 100% in 4 different containers soaking in Simple green. Maybe I'll
move my buffer from the garage to the basement......

yes fronts got off ebay natural alloy machined finish like new but need polishing to be at their best.Figured haft polish after strip the blue rears,but feared id leave easyoff on the blue ones to long and pit the alloy.So how long sit with on them and what to use scrub color off?Don It depends on ...

Just be careful with how much paint you put on it? As you can see in the pic I made it to thick and didnt recounter sink the holes so it lifted around the screws. I used primer and everything, the other one I am working on I did a better prep and no primer, just light paint and it looks much better...

you'd still have to fill the holes before you'd put a decal over the chassis. if not, you'll still see where every hole is. get some 2 part epoxy. put some tape over one side of the chassis (top, bottom, doesn't matter). now fill all of the holes (not the factory holes :wink: ) with the epoxy from ...