RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Show us an underside pic of the car, I would bet it is a composite craft chassis. Looks like there are an extra set of holes just in front of the bulkhead. I presume this is to move the rear end forward to shorten the wheelbase on the car. -Jeff

I would not run your differential with the clear associated diff lube. It is meant for use in ball differentials, and contains silica. This is a very abrasive material, and I would imagine could wear out your diff gears rather quickly (although I have never tried this). The black associated molybden...

Typically, the more surface area you are trying to anodize, the more amperage you need. Small parts like shock caps and bushings are easy, large parts like a chassis... not so easy. Google some "home anodizing" setups, and you should be able to find equations for amperage vs. square inches...

I would rather it go to someone who will use it for a build (I hope ). Besides, I am in the process of molding my own chassis blanks for the Ultima at the moment . -Jeff

Well, it's on flea-bay now. It wasn't what I was looking for . -Jeff

Thanks guys, would have never guessed. -Jeff

Picked up an ultima from the bay. Short wheelbase, 20 degree kick up. Question is, who made it? Composite Craft? It has 3 holes on each side that I am not familiar with. Trailing arms maybe?

One thing that may make a difference to you is knowing that brians bodies weren't perfect. Most of the windows and details were cut by hand. I have seen many of them and thought the outlines could be neater/better (although I am a perfectionist). So doing a repro project car and body isn't misrepres...

Just store them fully charged, and remember to charge them every few months.

6th in the 4wd a-main. Don't remember allot from that race, accept for the trophy girl .

Re-anodising isn't very expensive (at least not near me), so do it if you want to. I get my stuff done for $60 usd per tree, and I can usually get 3 cars out of it (just depends on the # of parts). The parts can be stripped by the anodizing shop for an extra fee (which i would recommend - because th...

I have raced for many years with many associated drivers (and of course others). One thing about the RC10 series of cars that no one talks about (I asssume it is because few know) is the inharent ability of aluminum to absorb and dissipate stresses placed on it compared to composites. I remember dis...

In response to the Ultima parts- I like some of them, but I don't really think that most of the original parts were worth reproducing in carbon. The towers were not well designed originally. They had rigity issues, and very limited adjustments. The chassis (I would prefer) to see as a one piece mold...

TRX1

Heres a little tidbit of the projects I am working on. Those vintage pros will be able to identify most of the parts here. This set is nearly ready for the anodizing shop. Most are Kyosho, all are not. -Jeff