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Yeah, Jelich is a great guy, me and him go way back. But he hasn't been involved there in a about a year now. He works for A-Main hobbies in chico now. -Jeff

Mine is a similar route. I drilled a middle hole between the two std Klein holes. Seems perfect. -Jeff

That looks pretty close. On my WOIN car (and most cars) my starting place for droop is center line of axle in line with underside of chassis. It is usually a while (axhausting all other tuning peramiters) before I mess with rear droop. Build the rest of it and see where it is at when finished. -Jeff

Good, move the shock out tward the end of the arm. You should run your shocks out as far as possible for precision reasons. Then you should need a couple of .030 shims (2 maybe) inside the shock. Also move the top of the shock all the way in on the tower, for progression reasons. This should be clos...

Alot of good points have been covered here. A bit of basic setup theory tho. Firstly when attacking a problem (like the one described), you always look at the end of the car that has the weight transfered to it first. This will typicaly be the the area one would like to attack first, as that end wil...

You car is sitting flat on the table, the shocks should be taller than the tower if you look at it this way. Mount the shocks, and then see how much droop you have. -J

Well I too live in the bay area, and we have several more closing -R/C Unlimited in campbell closed about a month ago And Nor Cal hobbies is closing this month (their building sold) I will now have to drive an hour plus to race and find relevant parts in an area of nearly 6 million people :roll: . -...

Chassis tweaks with the tub are not an issue. I have/had run my car in mod with an 8.5 combo far a long time, and it was as good there as in 17.5. The length of the arms is really not an issue either, though I have only run the short CE style arms. I have made plenty of parts for others (shock tower...

I currently race a aluminum tub car and consistently TQ/Win/Top 3 in the 17.5 class everytime I race. Locally our drivers are national caliber racers and are in the top 10 at JConcept races, Nationals, etc. My tub car it the most consistent 2wd car I have ever run. Like charlie said the std CE style...

As per current roar/ifmar rules, the cars must be able to accept stick packs. -Jeff

Oh sure, I stop looking for a couple of days and BOOM.

A five degree kick change is negligible in all other departments. The biggest change (and possibly only noticeable) change will be in castor itself. Good luck, would like to see it finished.

Love it. I always wanted one BITD. It does however appear that a cat may have peed on it . Have fun, the best part of the project is getting it restored. Running it is just a bonus. -Jeff

Well, technically the 25* kick up should be better as it will produce less weight jacking as the suspension moves. This is the reason the "modern" buggies favor 25* kick up. -Jeff

The car is beautiful. Just a note however, the rear of your car looked to have very little toe. Before you spend too much time on setup you need to make sure you have 3* per side, or the back end will be very unstable. Generally speaking the MID had almost none out of the box, you may be able to use...