RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Any one here think I need to do a moo scheme body for it???

Glad somerone here got it, I was watching it just for fun--

13.5 will give you the most run time, but if you are on a literal MX track, will seem very slow-- if you go with a lower turn motor (faster) you can turn the trottle down via your transmitter, and increase runtime & driveability I can run my basher 10t on my 50 sec per lap practice track for 45m...

Ok, so I won't bring it up again--sorry BTW, everyone here WAS a newbie once, get off the pillar Ijust because people are voicing their opinions doesn't mean they're on a soapbox. I think reign meant he'd like to keep this site dedicated to vintage, and not a rctech-type clone. Everyone is entitled...

Ok, so I won't bring it up again--sorry





BTW, everyone here WAS a newbie once, get off the pillar

This site is awesome I just thought I'd mention that

Losi makes a nice natural white (but not RPM white) heavy 4/40 ball cup, same length as the
RPM ones, and easy to find if you look hard the bottom worlds car in the pic has em' (before I found NIP AE ones--

C'mon stop teasing us!!!!!!!!!!!1

I wish you would have let ME pay 200eu for that one

No----how cool is THAT.

Standoff height is determined by placing the "hex" portion of the aluminum on the top or bottom
of the bellcrank, and the Putnam ones won't work on a older car because they have a fore/aft
hole system for ackerman & bump steer that will connect with the rc10 front bulkhead when turned

AE6360, 1.5 deg if I'm not mistaken, the outer hub was standard except the worlds car

RPM, MIP, Houge, Hot Trick, A&L and a few more

Reggie may be dislexic

Lots of parts were redesigned in the past 6 mo, and most stock goes out to dealers and towerhobbies--