RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

About a month ago after running it really hard since my post about it, a tooth chipped on the idler gear. Going to go back to plastic gears but it was a fun experiment. Made it sound less like a toy and like it had a supercharger. I think if I had kept the plastic idler gear everything would have be...

x2 on the chassis protector. A scratch free one adds at least $50 to its value. My CE ended up being my main 1/10 scale car and its not quite scratch free...
For the cranks, I like the Dhawk aluminum ones on ebay. Just gotta locktite the threads for the ball ends.

So far so good on all metal gears. Has a neat whine to it when you punch it like a supercharger or a gear driven camshaft. I've broken other things racing and running it around, but even with the slipper clutch being not too slippy and getting good grip from the tires, no gear issues even with the s...

This is my DD, but it also gets a lot of love and mods:

We shall see - I put the idler gear in last night with the thrashed diff gear and...it worked great. Did all kinds of horrible things to it and it didn't strip out. Is it tearing up the mainshaft? Dunno, I'm going to run a few more packs through it and do a teardown. The aluminum shouldn't be wearin...

Why be pissed? Heck even the AE guy who designed and spec'ed the trans would look at this and say "whatever..." I'm sure. Parts are chosen mostly for cost in terms of production - and for weight in terms of racing. In this case, plastic wins on both fronts. If they were given a cost-no-opt...

For sure, idler: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Idler-Gear-For-Team-Associated-RC10-Worlds-Car-6569-26T-DR-920107/191354255401?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Diff: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Stealth-Gear-For-Team-Associated-RC10-6580-45T-Dhawk-Racing-DR-9200...

Going to try out these guys in the trans. Should make an interesting sound too...

Its interesting to be sure. I have two more Mirage bodies, but I'm not sure if I want to do another one of those or find something else.

There was likely just a bunch of "miles" on those gears. I would run pack after pack in this thing when I was a kid. I remember back in the day that I likely didn't have the slipper completely right since it would do a reverse to forward burnout. That couldn't have been good for anything, ...

Wow, that damage is pretty crazy. I've only been able to run a battery through mine, so time will tell, but so far so good.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 18, 2018 4:41 pm Cool! Did you need to install capacitors? I read that Savox servos can draw a lot of current.

Yup! Sure did. I don't know if it was needed but I didn't want to fry something and find out.

Well, got both cars running, but this weekend the CE lunched it's original idle and diff gears. I ordered the dhawk aluminum gears to see if that will help. Wondering if trying to run vintage cars will work out for me in the end...new motors have too much power maybe? I also got the tuning box for t...

So I had a question that turned into a build thread in the electronics section, but that wasn't really the right place for that. I wish I could find some pictures of the CE when I first got it back when I was 8 years old. I had wanted a little toy car that the body popped up when you hit a button on...

I got the gold ano paint down. I had to turn down the airbrush a lot. The spatz stix paint is very thin. Didn't get pics though. This week I'll do the mirror backing and finish it up. The base paint I've been using is Createx Transparent Base. I didn't paint without it, so I can't compare, but I don...