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I looked closer and it looks like I've lost some little plastic cover. Are there replacement pin covers, or do I need a new dogbone section of this CVD? My past experience is.with regular cheapo dogbones, not CVDs. This is a low friction cover for the cvd pin that protects the out-drives from wear....

Just got the bullet connectors they are a bit chunky but are easy to grip. It looks a bit cleaner now. The motor wires are next.

With the foam block you should consider adding a battery strap that looks like a worlds style, that has an extension that hooks under the rear bulkhead box. This will be a better way to prevent the battery from popping up. I thought about that. It seems like the way to go, but I'll have to a bit be...

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 24, 2021 6:42 pm slotcarrod's Cliff Lett Team Moo 10T is off the chain.

this one https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=20845

I'm looking for inspiration from this board and from pro racers on Greatest of All Time RC10T builds. The Lavigna RC10T - Purple Modern Build without doubt gets a spot on that list. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=40643 What other builds transcend a build of the month and arrive at...

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Jun 23, 2021 3:24 pm The back of that wing is made to be mostly cut out. There should be some faint lines in the mold for trimming it.

Thanks for that. That wing is actually the original kit wing. I should un-string it and work up the detonator wing. Is the wing is painted from underneath?

I think Avid had their own top shaft with the built in spacer. A large one like the MIP shaft had. I used an AE b4 top shaft (9601) and made a spacer to go between the bearing and inner slipper hub. Had to open up the hole on the trans case. This thread is old but I was able to use the stealth case...

Making new shock towers to try out a new wiring path.

I have been researching 10mm shock design for a build I am doing and I ran across a chart from petitrc.com that compares some of the common pistons for 10mm across brands. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiSi-Cws...

I went overboard buying new parts on my rebuild. I don't think I had more fun or made a better car. For the most part you can restore the car for an investment in time and little else. You can clean and re-oil the original bearings to make them run like new. Use simple green to soak the bearings and...

Yes v1 and v2 are essentially the same. The seal end is changed slightly from the first bottom load to top load to bottom load with a cap. The seal is the same just held in place differently. The threaded bodies helped ride height setting tuning. That is going to greatly simplify my build. I'll use...

So the foam block is in place and the body is painted. 492BBC5F-31F7-4E08-BA0D-0B080AA5A468.jpeg I found some computer case screws that work perfectly on the hold down. Electrical tape works great for holding down the wires but any loose edge attracts dirt. I think I am going to cut a foam block to ...

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Jun 22, 2021 1:58 am Yes. There were small bore V2 shocks, with and without threaded bodies.

Thanks for that. I think my current build is actually using the small bore v2. I’m going to wager that the v1 is close enough in performance.

The question says it all. Were there Team Associated v2(10 mm) shocks that came before the v2 (12 mm) big bore? I am comparing https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/91315-ASC91315-12mm_shock_kit_sc10_t4_front_-_all_mod_versions_/ vs https://www.associatedelectrics.com/team...

Hey all this is related to my attempt to build the 2016 rc10T stock racer https://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotlight/pages/RC10T_Van/index.html My goal is to build a truck that is runs and handles like the original build. However shocks and springs are expensive so I want to understand the differences. ...