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GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2024 5:43 pm MIP will never do it

But....

Oh, I so wanted to mention that... but you asked us not to.

2024 is shaping up to be a very bad year... for my checking account.

Is it real? Why would AE take it down - a misprint correction perhaps? Someone did a Thumbs, and went early...... :lol: :lol: I've said time and again that the 40th would be the last "classic" re-released this year - or maybe forever. I've never in my life been so happy to be wrong. :lol:

Is it real?
Why would AE take it down - a misprint correction perhaps?

Actually it is recommended you boil the parts after they completed a peroxide bath. With no support I have always done this before. My thoughts were that if the nylon is dehydrated it would absorb water/fluid. So I wanted to hydrate the nylon with plain water first so the peroxide would only be on ...

After soaking in the water, the nylon seems to have become more supple, and the fade isn't as crispy or dry looking. https://i.imgur.com/3GWm6ZZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZOyMLKm.jpg Wondering if I even need to do the peroxide now. I'll wait to see what the water did for these tomorrow, and then deci...

So the replacement arms have arrived from Factory Works. Thanks again Jeff. Notice the difference (original arm is on the right). The new arm lacks a stringer at the wheel end. I'm guessing the replacement arm is a later design? P1010014.JPG With this design, perhaps some torsional rigidity is sacri...

A nice little 10T care package from Factory Works.
Thanks Jeff.

FWIW, I like my 40th just as it is. The nylon is nice and white, the anno is brilliant gold/orange and the zinc and black oxide plated parts look good as well. The rest of my RC10 collection is old, the anno is faded and the nylon looks dingy by comparison and some of them have been peroxide treate...

Actually it is recommended you boil the parts after they completed a peroxide bath. I've heard that as well. Look, I think we would agree that subjecting vintage RC10 parts to boiling water and harsh chemicals isn't good for the nylon. I've done the peroxide treatment in the past but these days I'm...

This is great! I really appreciate all of your input, thanks guys! I can't afford to do this wrong and ruin the original parts, and hearing all of your success stories, and best practices, makes me feel more comfortable about doing this. First, I soaked all of the white plastics in water, it has be...

The peroxide method is tried and true. If it hasn't been mentioned, just make sure to rinse/soak the parts after really well. Might want to pay particular attention to blind holes, etc. When going into the peroxide bath, you can drive the air bubbles out with a toothpick or similar. Same with the r...

Well, best I can do is 25 degree castor blocks with some shims under the ball stud to bring the links parallel - or closer to it. This setup will be placeholders until I can source the proper ones. I want to keep the project moving forward. Built the shocks today so the chassis is nearly finished. T...

Shouldn't see much, but different caster blocks do vary the amount or need for washers under the ball studs. As a rule of thumb, try to get the steering rods parallel with the suspension arms and you should see little to no bump steer Ah, I think you've hit the nail on the head. I couldn't find the...

I have the front suspension assembled per the manual and I'm seeing some bump-steer - did not expect that. It's not extreme but it's there.
This is my first T build. Maybe there's an old racer's trick to shim the ballstuds or steering rack to reduce or remove it? ...or do we live with it?

Beautiful prep work!

Can't wait to see it with some color.

Oh man, this is gonna be good.