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You'd want tube, not bar. I'd hate to try to drill a centered hole on the end of a bar that small. lol. I can lookup the hobby part I ordered to try it out with ... if I can find the receipt in my email.

You'd have to ask, not sure. I'd post on the SSC10 FB group. I'd hope he'd have a few spares in the shop or maybe he could even fabricate a few. Although not sure how they'd line up if not used with the SSC10 chassis. I know it's easy to find the tube stock and you'd just have to get a bender to ben...

Made a little progress on the front end because my shock towers arrived yesterday...

I second the AE Shock Shaft Pliers... I used the shock shaft pliers for the first time on my ReRe build and definitely made building the shocks easier. Other ideas (useful for other hobbies I have too)... Pointed nose micro pliers, great if you work on small things. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZ...

Ok, seeing as I get to the track for a few hours every couple hours all of the above should be lots to play with. I am running a shorty Lipo as far forward as I can get it so not much to do there. I think I will try rear toe next. It's something I can see easily. What are the part #'s for 0 toe and...

At 40 (last year), I was selling my condo near the beach to buy a house for my 1yo and girlfriend in the burbs. And trying to find any excuse to go hide in the basement to play with my toys. :) Now, at 2.5yo, my daughter loves to help me fix things and use my "toodles" (tools). I thought a...

I test fit the DE Borrego wheels and they are right on the edge of rubbing the hub carrier and rear shock. I could change the shock location to resolve that and possibly sand down the inner wheel edge / hub carrier to make sure I don't rub. Fine for bashing, but looks like I'll need some regular whi...

The real Worlds car used shorter camber links. AE screwed up the rere and didn't put the holes in the Worlds location. It's easy to drill them yourself tho, right between the rere hole and the upper inside of the group of 9 Hrm.... didn't know that. Now, I'll have to go home and look at my Worlds v...

you are going to run into some trouble with the borrego wheels and the 'normal' rc10 rear suspension. Those wheels are designed for B4 and later correct? they have a different offset compared to the world car suspension, by about .400" on each side. if you don't have interference issues, it wi...

RC10th wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2017 9:09 am I've never messed with it personally on a worlds car but if I did I would try a 12L/10L castor shim.

Wow... haha... talk about using some old school tech there.

How is the car traction rolling? Is it rolling over on the front causing it to tip over? Picking up the inside rear tire? More droop/roll we found actually sometimes reduces the tendency to traction roll. I think the reason is the car rolls beyond the point of traction and actually starts reducing ...

Updated the build parts list initial post...

Really hoping my towers get here so I can make progress over the long weekend. Also need to make progress on my anodizing work for others so I can reconfigure to anodize stuff for this build.

For starters on camber, do the front tires seem to be wearing evenly from the inside to outside of the tire. If not, it means you aren't getting the best contact patch when cornering. If you can't tell, on old school foam we'd make a chalk stripe across the tire and run a lap or three to see if more...

You can dial brake via radio too.

More front traction will increase risk to traction roll.

Did you try tweaking camber on front and/or rear ?

Run a front wing? Or reduce rear wing downforce?

Switch rear tires or maybe change the inserts?

Well stock rear toe is 3 degrees I think. So going to 1.5 or 0 could help. Generally speaking when you can't add more steering, take away rear traction. Stiffer rear spring? Or dial a little / more brake into the car

Do you sauce the tires?