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How do you achieve the best results, with lexan scissors (straight or curved), or a sharp hobby knife?

Scissors, then sandpaper to clean it all up.

I use Fiskars Micro Tip Titanium scissors for bodies. It’s really about the dual movement cuts for the round parts. Meaning you rotate the body with one hand as you cut straight with the other. That keeps from making corners that tear when you try to turn the scissors and stop.

Forever I was all about the scissors, until I started doing the razor score and snap method. Granted I trim prior to painting so not sure I’d suggest it post paint.

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 10:21 pm Forever I was all about the scissors, until I started doing the razor score and snap method. Granted I trim prior to painting so not sure I’d suggest it post paint.

Score and snap and scissors where it makes sense. Score as far off the final as far as you want then sandpaper or smooth controlled Dremel sanding drum passes. For tight areas like shock tower "notches" or whatever you want to call them, I've used a drill bit with the closest radius, moderate pressure with drill bit in hand holes then score to the apex. Sandpaper around whatever shape wooden stick or drill bit.

It's a complete and total pain in the *ss. And if anyone says, "oh, I enjoy trimming and fitting a lexan body shell." they are full of it. I enjoy one perfectly fitted (of which, I have none ), but the process is horsesh*t!!! IMO.

Why limit yourself?

I use straight and curved scissors, X-Acto knives, sanding blocks, and a Dremel with various bits.

I always used just scissors in the past, with decent results, but it took forever to get the edges straight and smooth, I also use 2000 grit wet sandpaper in the wheel wells and the edges.

But I recently tried the sharp hobby knife, score and snap method, and that is the cleanest looking lexan cut I've ever seen, didn't know that was possible, looks like it was never cut, but molded that way from the factory.

When I try the sharp knife on the body lines, if I press too hard or move too fast, the blade walks out of the line I'm cutting. So I set out to find a way to control the blade better during the process.

Watched a bunch of YT videos on the subject, and the common theme was taking just the sharp X-acto blade with no handle on it, and wrapping the blade in tape, or plastic, to hold it closer to the work and control the path better.

Was watching this video, and ordered the Fiskars tool he's using for $10 with extra #11 blades:


https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Fingertip-Precision-Detail-Standard/dp/B07Q5G2DFG/


Will give this a go and report back.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Mar 02, 2024 1:01 pm I also use 2000 grit wet sandpaper in the wheel wells and the edges.

I am on the opposite end of the scale there. I use 120-150 grit. I'm not wet sanding it into shape.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 02, 2024 1:25 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Mar 02, 2024 1:01 pm I also use 2000 grit wet sandpaper in the wheel wells and the edges.

I am on the opposite end of the scale there. I use 120-150 grit. I'm not wet sanding it into shape.

I just use the fine paper for the jagged bits that get leftover from the scissors, or just the final polish, really looking forward to seeing what the blade can do.

I throw everything at it. Hobby knife with new #11 blade, Body scissors, Dremel with drum sander, Body reamer, Sand paper for edges. It all looks easy on the You Tube 101 classes but I couldn't score a straight line to save my ass let alone wheel wells. I usually cut the bodies out before painting and sand the edges after painting.

I don't have the short Fiskars handle yet, it will be here later today, but I did try my Tamiya knife with a new blade.

The red line in this pic shows the portion of this rear bumper that has been cut with the blade, or scored and then snapped:


What's worth noticing is every other cut in these pics were cut with lexan scissors, and how rough the scissors leave the cut line, compared to how glassy smooth the score and snap is.




Under the camera's flash, the contrast between the cut surfaces is even more apparent.


After this test, I'm convinced I need to use the blade as often as possible.

Will finish this new HPI vette body with the blade method, and then compare it to my scissor cut body when it's done.

I tend to mainly use scissors to cut out my bodies but the Xacto gives a much cleaner finish.

If your using the Xacto break off just the tip of the blade, this prevents it from wandering and gives you more control. When cutting a body with an Xacto support the body on the corner of the table and work your way around the body while using the table corner for support. You'll be amazed at how well this helps you cut out the body.

When I was cutting out bodies for a hobby shop the game was to be able to remove the trimmed off skirt in one piece.

A body with crisp mold lines is best suited to a Xacto and unless you have a steady and good free hand bodies with very faint or non existent body lines are easier with scissors.

Another tip for easy basic detailing bodies is before you pull the mask off you can trim windows, roll bars, vents and whatnot else and paint them on the outside.

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 11:17 pm It's a complete and total pain in the *ss. And if anyone says, "oh, I enjoy trimming and fitting a lexan body shell." they are full of it. I enjoy one perfectly fitted (of which, I have none ), but the process is horsesh*t!!! IMO.

Bonus points if the body is rare and vintage. It be like: Musnt screw up this body! If I do I will never find another like it. Cutting lexan is pure stress.

When scoring with a blade, I hate having to go over the same line multiple times. I will always end up missing of jumping the original score line. Unless I find a thin spot and go straight through by accident.

I definitely have to trim before painting, as well as add the body mount holes. Otherwise I'm going to scar up the paint with the repeated trial fits to the vehicle. That is also harder when the body can't be seen through.

Got the Fiskars short blade handle, it's a dream come true, the blade makes this all so much easier once the method/technique is solid.

Finishing the last wheel well.


Kept the brand new blade tip lightly pressed to the lexan while following the contour of the line, and focusing not on the tip of the blade, but the rear of the blade closest to my hand as mentioned in the video above, used the corner of the bench to get the surface flat and solid behind my cutting lines, as @RC10th mentioned. These are the results.








I will never use scissors-only again, I have seen the light. Feel like I wasted a lot of time previously, as this will barely require any sanding after the fact.

This new method will make this pile of bodies go faster too. I'm not dreading cutting these out any longer.