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Hello Friends of the RC10

Looking at my Losi Mini-T "1.0" (old rear motor version) I found that if I would stretch this thin a little bit, it would be quit exactly a "3/4-Scale-1/10-Buggy".

With 180 mm instead of 240 mm, according to that the wheelbase should be a bit less than 210 mm instead of a bit less than 280 mm.

This means I have to make a chassis that is about 42 mm longer than the original one.

This will be a "2-step-project":

First step: Longer chassis only, just to test the idea and settings.

Second step: Redraw and replace parts to get a more "RC10-like" look (noseplate, shock tower, front bulkhead...)

Drawing of the chassis:




The body could look like this. Does anybody have experience in vacuum forming? I think I will have to mill the mould from wood and then vacuum form the body from PET-G ("Vivak").

Cool project!

I believe the 75% scale of 1/10 scale works out to be about 1/14th scale overall. I wonder if it will really end up being a little larger than the modern Mini-B (1/16 scale), or if Losi just didn't get the numbers quite right.

nicholasdivitto wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:45 pm Cool project!

I believe the 75% scale of 1/10 scale works out to be about 1/14th scale overall. I wonder if it will really end up being a little larger than the modern Mini-B (1/16 scale), or if Losi just didn't get the numbers quite right.

I know the mini JRX2 is more around 1/14 scale than 1/16 if you compare it to the original.

To make it easy, you can just grab a mini slider chassis and front bulkhead to gain the extra length. You can then trim the square chassis front into a triangle to make a buggy profile.

TBG still sell the body for the conversion kit they used to sell.

It might actually be worth contacting them to see if they can produce the entire kit. They seem to make bodies to order, so perhaps cutting out some carbon is something they could do for you too.

Edit: I now realise you're trying to make a mini RC10, not a mini xxx, so that's probably no help

Not yet the perfect beauty but it will do it for a while and for testing. The first runs are very promising, handling is much more stable and consistent than the original truck version. It was not a big deal, three parts (chassis, upper deck, upper-deck-to-servo-saver-stiffener-plate) fell out of my CNC-router, some small things (spacers for screws) I had to make on the lathe.
Oh yes, and I almost forgot: I made a carbon frame to hold the servo in place, no tape is needed.

Just about to complete the tool path to mill the mould. I think I will make the mould from MDF. Any hints or comments? Anyway, I'll just give it a try. But first I will have to build a vacuum forming box.

Mould is milled. Size comparision to the "big" RC10:

First try has a wrinkle, but I will manage to make better ones. Fits quite well:



Does anybody know if paint for Lexan bodies will work on PET-G?

LusBus wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 4:17 pm First try has a wrinkle, but I will manage to make better ones. Fits quite well:



Does anybody know if paint for Lexan bodies will work on PET-G?

I haven't tried but it should work. Also the mini JRX wheels work on that chassis if you're looking for buggy style wheels and tires.

Did you make that vacuum former? BTW adding some small holes to the mold near details will help decrease the issue of wrinkles and make the details form a little better by giving the vacuum more places to extract air.

What a feeling! Painting for the first time a self made body. Paint for lexan bodies seems to work well.

Wing:

LusBus wrote: ↑Sun Feb 26, 2023 11:48 am Wing:

Good work! I just realized the body was made of petg? Like repurposed bottles?

PETG is slightly different from PET. I don't know the exact difference. For sure it's easier to handle than Lexan, because the temperature range for vacuum forming is uncritical. And it's quite easy and cheap to find. Lexan paint seem to work well. I don't know about the durability (especially compared to Lexan), I will have to test it.