First Time Painting Lexan

[TM Ru22311]

I have a restoration project that will be close to finish soon. I am going to order the body from TBG. I have some painting experience, but never painted an rc body before. What is the best way to get nice results? I do have an airbrush I bought used last Summer, but have never used it (or any airbrush for that matter). Just wondering if an airbrush is better than using a bomb can? Also, what type of paint do you guys use? I have painted a few Xbox's with Krylon Fusion. It has an adhesion promoter in the paint and is great for plastics, but I am unsure about Lexan. I may have to get that airbrush kit out and do some practicing with it :/

[Coelacanth]

I think a good way to research this is to search "painting lexan RC body" or similar keywords on YouTube. This one is pretty comprehensive:

[youtube]gnlAULx33fw[/youtube]

[TM Ru22311]

Awesome! Thank you Coelacanth. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video is priceless!

[Coelacanth]

A couple tips I would suggest, additional to that video:

-Use steel wool when cleaning the inside of the body; this roughs it up slightly and promotes paint adhesion. You technically shouldn't need it, but helping improve the paint bond is always a good thing, and you don't see it after it's painted, anyway.

-I blow-dry the liquid mask coats with a hair dryer in between coats. Put on at least 3 fairly thick coats; if the liquid mask is too thin, it'll rip and tear when pulling off the mask and be a pain. In this case, a bit too much is probably better than not quite enough. Similarly, I blow-dry the paint in between coats to speed up the paint-job process.

[TM Ru22311]

That liquid mask is pretty cool. I didn't even know they had something like that! So, I guess if you were doing a solid color, then liquid mask is not needed? I am restoring a Vintage Tomahawk and it looks to be one solid color. Should I cut the windows out before or after paint? I believe the Tomahawk has nets on the side instead of windows. I have seen pics where people left the front window in, but I guess it is just personal preference. Either way looks good.

[Coelacanth]

You paint a Lexan body in reverse. You mask off everything, then remove the mask from where you want your first, darkest color you wish to paint. Usually that's black, or some other dark color. Whatever areas you want to be that color, you cut out the mask in those places, then paint. When that paint is down, you remove the mask from the areas that you wish to paint next, the next-lightest color. Let's say red; so you unmask whatever you want to be red, then paint the red. Once the red's dry, you remove the mask from where you intend to have your third color, let's say some silver areas for the bumpers, and then paint the silver. The silver can also be the backing color for your red. Now if you have some areas you want to be white--like some white stripes for example--remove the mask from the stripes and paint the white there. When all the colors are finished being painted, remove the window masks, so the windows will be clear.

Again, research how to do paint jobs with liquid mask; you'll find lots of tutorials, examples & ideas.

[TM Ru22311]

Yeah, I watched the video you posted, that was really interesting to see as I have never seen that before. I learned something new! I assume you can pick up that liquid mask at any local hobby shop? I can't wait to try it myself and thanks for the video link and extra tips!

[integra22t]

the local hobby shop should have it .. if not just make sure its for lexan as i picked up some liquid mask but it had too much rubber in it so when you tryed to cut it out it would pull back and not want to sick to the body

3m blue fine line tape is also very good .. just make sure its stuck down before you spray any paint

lots of good painters on here and im sure they will pop up to help

[terry.sc]

I am restoring a Vintage Tomahawk and it looks to be one solid color. Should I cut the windows out before or after paint? I believe the Tomahawk has nets on the side instead of windows. I have seen pics where people left the front window in, but I guess it is just personal preference. Either way looks good.

The roof bars are painted black on the Tomahawk, paint these first before the main body colour.

As for cutting out the windows, if you are planning on running it I would leave all the windows in place as they add a lot of the strength to the roof and keeps some of the dirt out of the insides. If it's for a shelf then cutting out the windows out and adding the driver figure and window netting looks better.

if you are going to cut out the windows, but them out after painting as you then don't have to bother with covering the holes to prevent overspray on the outside around the edges. If you don't have the body detail parts set for the exhaust and spotlights as well as window netting, Kyosho part number SC-72, you can find suitable window netting in the Tamiya Hotshot window net bag, Tamiya part number 9400637.

[Coelacanth]

One advantage of using masking tape vs. liquid mask is when doing straight lines. Doing freehand stuff (like the ever-popular tribals and flames and that sort of thing) is much easier with liquid mask.

One tip to making straight lines with liquid mask: After you've put down the mask and it's completely dry, you can use that 3M blue tape to mark out your straight lines, then slowly & lightly score the liquid mask with a fresh X-Acto knife blade along the tape edge. That's how I got some really nice, clean straights on the Buffalo and OptiMutt bodies I painted.

This topic I posted has additional tips for airbrushing, it was my first time using an airbrush and FasKolor paints:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=32161

[TM Ru22311]

If you don't have the body detail parts set for the exhaust and spotlights as well as window netting, Kyosho part number SC-72, you can find suitable window netting in the Tamiya Hotshot window net bag, Tamiya part number 9400637.

THANK YOU! That is some very valuable info I have been seeking for weeks! It will be for the shelf so I have been scanning my brain to think of an alternative to SC-72 (I am not dropping $80 for that)! I was thinking about painting mine Kawasaki green. I want to keep it period correct and most Tomahawks I've seen are red/burgundy. Not sure if that green would look out of place.

Thanks for the airbrush link Coelacanth. I was considering using the airbrush. I will have to practice a bit first to see how that goes.

[TM Ru22311]

Awesome! That Tamiya kit also includes a switch cover (something else I am missing)

[TM Ru22311]

I wanted to go with a Kawasaki green for the color. I have found an original Polycolor chart and see that Tamiya makes a paint similar to that color (PS28). Would these polycarbonate paints be suitable with Lexan or do I need a paint specifically for Lexan?

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/tamiya-color-spray-ps-61700/ps-28-fluorescent-green-86028

[teman]

That's the correct paint, says polycarb on the can. Keep in mind if you're doing fluorescent colors, you need to back it with white.

[TM Ru22311]

That's the correct paint, says polycarb on the can. Keep in mind if you're doing fluorescent colors, you need to back it with white.

You're saying put a few coats of white over the final color?