i couldnt imagine at 10.000 miles from me people r discussing about my rc10.
A guy from this forum, was so kind , and he contacted me...i still dont know how he find my email, anyway we talked about our long story on rc10s and i decided to post some pics here.
This rc10 is the one u saw on youtube on scandicci italian championship and is the result of 20 years of my racing in italy. This is overall the best rc10 i ever modified.
In last italian championship i got 3rd place and on bumpy tracks this cow rc10 can be even better than todays b4.
the wheelbase is around 31 cm, is long wheelbase since is made for long and bumpy tracks.
ok lets start with pics
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this is the cowRC10 , using front rulux wheels and rear tamiya wheels
this is front end.This is the best front end i ever built. Use GT front arms. The excursion of wheels is umbelivable, on bumpy tracks is like to go on smooth tracks. Use the front GT shocks.
The caster blocks r 30 degrees.
the shock tower is custom made on carbon chassis 3mm and is super narrow.This allow me to use super long shocks.Since the front shocks towers r fixed to original holes for sway bar, the shocks r at the back, so they r more protected and safe.
the bulkhead is GPM for gt aluminium, and to fit it at the main chassis i build 2 aluminium rods. In the middle of them i connected the camber links. To prevent the rods to flex i connected them togheter with a duomi bar.
I had to narrow the front brace to allow the front end to stay inside 25cm width that is maxximum allowed for races.
I used original GT rpm bumper narrowed too.
The servo is futaba slim and fit perfectly in the car.
The rear end is also the result of endless experiment.
the biggest problem for all people who make races is to have fresh spare parts.
So i used most of parts that i can still buy today.
The rear shock tower is custom made of 3mm silver carbon and is very narrow to allow to use gt rear shocks 1.32.
The wing support is losi.
The tranny is RPM low gear, great for use with today brushless( i use novak light 7.5)
I installed the hydra drive version , and i replaced all friction parts with b4 ones that fit perfectly on rpm hydra shaft.
The arms support are 3 degrees RPM.
at the rpm arms blocks r installed losi 2wd arms,they fit perfectly without any mods and they r long enough to use the TC3-O mip bones.
I use yokomo hub, but the yokomo hub is metric and has 3mm arms holes, so i drilled it in 3.175 for use with losi arm pins. The axe are from mip/hpi rs4 so i can use metric bearing and also tamiya wheels that i use also on many others cars .
Since the holes to connect shocks r too deep inside the rims, i build a carbon piece to allow shocks to work better.
I build a custom aluminium heat sink fixed at motor plate so air can flow and keep temperature down.
the chassis is wordl edition with milled in center. Is the best rc10 chassis ever made, except the fyberlite carbon tub chassis that, in my opinion is the best aftermarket chassis u can use for races.
i use teflon tape to protect chassis during the races. This winter im planning take all my chassis to hard anodizing to last longer than standard anodizing.
this pic give u idea about the front travel of wheels...
hope u like my rc10.
I ran in italy with cow style rc10s since many years and i also made a truck, with custom double chassis...i won 2007 and 2008 italian championship with this truck...i will post pic in future
Hope u all will get nice ideas about my rc10.
Long life to all rc10 on this planet
Giovanni from italy
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