Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Feb 01, 2023 8:36 am
Full Holiday Buggy gearbox and gears , tried a render , needs better lighting .
chassis v25.pngchassis v25 1.pngchassis v25 2.png
Are you going to do a modernized version of the Holiday buggy chassis?
No Tamiya already did a re-chassis although I may do some mods to have oil shocks , this mostly started to be able to supply replacement gears so people could get them going again , I'll design a gear cover as well as the lack of a closed gearbox was the cause of needing gears , not really sure why I'm modelling other parts as this is probably the least loved of all Tamiya cars , it takes a few minutes to find any reference to the old version even on TamiyaClub Forum anyway I just finished the rear arm model , its not handed so I didn't even have to mirror it .
chassis v27.pngchassis v27 1.png
The thing is lot of people complain about 2 things regarding the re-release : the DT02 chassis required to do some cutouts of the bodyshell because of the shock towers, which are not so nice, and the arms of the DT02 chassis are far too wide for the bodyshell... And for the rest : initially it was mostly a 380 based car, event if there was "Off-road high performance car" marked on the chassis (which is by the way marked on every single Tamiya box, even for the Grasshopper)... Maybe time to make it a real high performance offroad car
There are shorter arms for the DT02 that someone designed but yes the holes in the front of the body are ugly , I've just bought a body (Sand Rover) and I'm going to have to close those holes up , the Sand Rover body is the standard Tamiya hard body material , I want to say Polystyrene ? and can be glued unlike the Holiday Buggy that has a Polyethene body that even paint wont stick too .
The main fault on the older surviving models is the front spring mounts breaking off the chassis so finding a way to add oil shocks to the front would be of use as well , again there is a part on Thingiverse to fix the spring mounts but I'm hoping I can do better .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Finished Holiday Buggy gear cover is now on Thingiverse for free download , I'll get the second version on Shapeways today .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
I've just ordered a set of printed gears for the holiday buggy , SLS printed in Nylon P12 for testing , should be with me in about a week and if they are good I'll add them to my Shapeways shop .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
I've just fished cutting up the Holiday Buggy chassis for 3d printing on an Ender 3 size bed , I've smoothed the bottom of all the little ridges and separated the front bumper fittings as a separate part , the two main parts are connected with four M3 screws, two from under the steering servo position and angled upward 45 degrees and one either side of the chassis angled downward , the angles make it easy to install the screws , allow longer screws for greater security and also hide the screws away somewhat .
the bumper fitting can also be attached from inside using M3 screws .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Test print of front end , its low resolution 0.28 layer height and I'm using up some ancient PETG but it all lines up , I. Printing the rear now but again using up old filament so it's funky translucent blue and won't be finished till morning .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
God I'd forgotten how much I hate PETG. Anyway this is the Holiday Buggy chassis complete , it all lines up nicely but its an ugly low res print and I had a little section at the front of the blue part warp up from the bed while I was out walking the dogs doesn't really matter as its never going to be used except as a proof model.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
I mentioned few days ago I would create this thread in one of my numerous thread where I actually speak about 3D modeling and 3D Prints in middle of vintage cars...
I currently have an Ender 5 Plus, which is stock beside the full metal...
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If you're not changing resins and don't have the printer near a window you don't even need to drain the vat unless you're going several months with it not in use.
I know but It really depends the resin you use (not all are behaving the same on...
I've been modeling and printing parts like crazy lately, a lot of which are SRB based. Thought you guys might like to see the progress. This first set is all the vintage style nylon bits. I'm also working on a rear mono rocker that works with the...
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Hi, welcome.
Have a look on Shapeways j-sou has a shop on there where youbuy the items in the first photos.
I recently got curious about the new wave of chrome effect paints that came out with real mirror finish results , previously I'd been looking at electro plating but it involves gallons of chemicals and some quite accurate control of voltages...
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The above two comments are spot on , the reflection shows absolutely every tiny defect , I can see the roughness of the buck used to form the body , little chips in the buck , I get that the buck is probably as old as the hills but I've never seen...
Ok today's dumb question is about the very early steering wheel style Transmitters , it's obvious how you did the steering on them but unlike the later trigger and wheel radios that we still have today it's hard to see how the throttle was...
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Would've made sense to have your thumb on the wheel next to steering as throttle and the side slider to be trim.
Looks like it tuned into radio Luxembourg as well.
I am looking to get some parts printed in PCblend. I think I have one .stl file sourced already. But, another part I need is a variation/prototype version of what later became the production version. There is enough of a difference between the two...
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Looking at the part, it looks quite easy to model... And a nice start to onboard within 3D design with Fusion360...
, not really sure why I'm modelling other parts as this is probably the least loved of all Tamiya cars , it takes a few minutes to find any reference to the old version even on TamiyaClub Forum
anyway I just finished the rear arm model , its not handed so I didn't even have to mirror it .
doesn't really matter as its never going to be used except as a proof model. 
