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All the variant's of the Mini Mustang Chassis are now on Cults3D for the price of a coffee , if you want one printed try Craftclowd , i found a service that would print it in China that would deliver to UK for under £50 , I recon that's a reasonable price point .

silvertriple wrote: ↑Tue Jul 05, 2022 10:26 am Just thinking that I recently read an article explaining that squared windows where abandoned on planes as bad for the structure and resulting in more structural issues than rounded windows... That being said, Lipo being generally less weight than NiCad of NiMH packs, it should be fine

It starts to run out of space for a round battery aperture large enough for Lipo , the standard Nicad chassis has a round battery aperture but its much smaller .

Dadio wrote: ↑Tue Jul 05, 2022 12:51 pm All the variant's of the Mini Mustang Chassis are now on Cults3D for the price of a coffee , if you want one printed try Craftclowd , i found a service that would print it in China that would deliver to UK for under £50 , I recon that's a reasonable price point .

Pay attention to the services you use : some are not including the VAT while some does... That makes the things difficult to compare sometimes...

silvertriple wrote: ↑Tue Jul 05, 2022 12:59 pm

Dadio wrote: ↑Tue Jul 05, 2022 12:51 pm All the variant's of the Mini Mustang Chassis are now on Cults3D for the price of a coffee , if you want one printed try Craftclowd , i found a service that would print it in China that would deliver to UK for under £50 , I recon that's a reasonable price point .

Pay attention to the services you use : some are not including the VAT while some does... That makes the things difficult to compare sometimes...

I spotted that , paint can almost double the price too , I looked at one where it was £50 plain or £90 painted black , dying is cheaper but you have to be a little careful .

Started modeling the Mini Mustang diff , the belt mesh is good , the teeth look a bit wooly at the edge in the picture's but its just from the print process where it swells as it touches the bed , the only adjustment needed is to move the screw holes slightly . I'm going to have a go at modeling the bevel gears as well .

I found an ADD IN for making bevel gears in Fusion 360 but its not very flexible , I did draw and print some and they worked but the tooth width was small and I could not adjust it so following several tutorials I drew up another set derived from spur gears , it sounded complicated and I had to watch several tutorials before I fully understood the process and now I have these . They are printing as a set in resin now .

Mini Mustang diff gear test prints . Gear meshes really well , just excuse the condition of the retired outdrive .

Have you had any need to do those little clips that hold number plates to zerda cage? They're supposed to have a short post to melt into holes around the plate.
I've got four which had been badly glued to the plate.
I could resort to cable ties but having something more authentic might be tempting

I know what you mean , it's kind of a crappy idea , I did make whole rear quarter panels that were made in one piece with the clips attached. It would be pretty simple to make original panels like them with clips attached or just the clip/block on its own if you like ?

Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 9:34 am ZERDA FRAME SIDE PANNELS v6.jpg

Another problem with making the above part to be soldered/melted on is that its not the same plastic and might not work well or have the same melting point .

I see. A modicum of super glue? I mean to try that or airfix cement on the pieces which had been stuck on with araldite. I'm cutting some panels out of the same flower pot which made the gearbox cover. It's the same gauge as panels and similar plastic.

If you have any you could try acetone(nail varnish remover) on a piece of the plastic and see if it softens or melts it , if so then ABS would work . Alternatively I could make the rivet part longer and it could be melted into a rivet head , problem then is that the decals go over the joint .

More SG Coyote , this time the front pumpkin , all lines up with an original.

Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 11:09 am If you have any you could try acetone(nail varnish remover) on a piece of the plastic and see if it softens or melts it , if so then ABS would work . Alternatively I could make the rivet part longer and it could be melted into a rivet head , problem then is that the decals go over the joint .

Acetone didn't seem to soften the panel or the clip enought to "weld" and just left a white residue. I wonder if shaping the stud on the clip so that it pops in quite snug would work. I've cut some panels out of PPE flower pot and will try a hot weld or glue gun.