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MCI has decal kits to make it easier.

https://mciracing.ca/collections/team-associated?sort_by=manual

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sat Dec 23, 2023 8:22 pm MCI has decal kits to make it easier.

https://mciracing.ca/collections/team-associated?sort_by=manual

I have a set of these coming for the GT, they look great. The thing about the Late Stealth CE kit is that it came with the Protech II, or the Viper body, my manual shows the Protech II body:


Protech II from CE manual:


But I have the Viper, and it's difficult to figure out what it was supposed to look like with paint and decals; I believe it's this version:

Take a look here. The Team Car Viper paint is very elaborate but also very cool.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=124340#p124340

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sat Dec 23, 2023 10:11 pm Take a look here. The Team Car Viper paint is very elaborate but also very cool.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=124340#p124340

The Team Car Viper is it! I'd much rather have this.










I wonder if Andy paints one like this.

I sent Andy a message on eBay about the Team Car Viper paint job, he said he will be painting Viper body's soon, he's waiting on delivery currently of more of them. He sounded like the Team Car paint job was in the works, stoked!

Setup the camber and toe of the front wheels, and the camber of the rear wheels today. Setup the servo throws, they were ridiculously too long, had to set the Tx ATL at about 34% L and R, to keep the servo from ramming the bellcrank assembly, and humming loudly at the physical endpoints.

I believe the Rooster is now setup correctly, Red at neutral, Green at full forward, and flashing Green in Reverse:


But, according to @Frankentruck, I should be getting a pause of 1 second between full forward, and reverse, I don't, no pause at all.

Canada seems to have some hard to find parts.


The Boki #6182 wing and mount kit to go with it.


Looks exactly like the original Viper body from '96.


Need to figure out what to do with this.

In trying to figure out my no-brakes, and no-Reverse-delay problem, I looked at the (3) ceramic capacitors that I had to install on the motor, according to the Rooster ESC instructions. I then noticed I had placed (2) caps between + and -, and only (1) from + to the can, or ground. The correct order, as was pointed out to me by @juicedcoupe earlier in this thread, is (1) cap between + and - tabs, (1) cap from + to ground/can, (1) cap from - to ground/can.

Pretty sure that was what fixed the problem.


The chassis is now completed.


Last step is to figure out the body.

Looks great, works great. Well done

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2024 11:37 am Looks great, works great. Well done

Really appreciate the encouragement, thanks @MarkyDents!

I set out to do this restoration here in this public forum, so that I would be compelled to actually finish this, and not just get tired of it, or reach an impasse and throw it all back in the attic still missing parts, or unfinished.

This site is great for many reasons, but this is why I keep pressing forward here, and will until my old cars are all completed. Happy to have a place where others may appreciate seeing this happen, I know I appreciate seeing the other detailed build threads here.

But this Viper body, this one has me thinking longer and harder than any other part of this project yet, the paint/decal scheme feels so permanent, or critical to the overall project, can't mess this last step up. Tough one.

If I could make a suggestion there is one paint job you rarely see done yet would be somewhat period correct…. This paint job spells America with a capital M for sure !

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2024 7:17 pm This paint job spells America with a capital M for sure !

...someone at Associated was an Evil Knievel fan.

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2024 7:17 pm If I could make a suggestion there is one paint job you rarely see done yet would be somewhat period correct….
IMG_7953.jpeg
This paint job spells America with a capital M for sure !

That's also really good! Building the matching pair of those, with the flyer in the display, would be incredible. I really like the 10T too!

Andy's RC Paints on eBay had a very similar RC10 body recently, to the one you posted, but with larger and more stars running from the hood to the windshield. Didn't realize where the inspiration was from. Thanks for posting that!

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2024 7:38 pm

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2024 7:17 pm This paint job spells America with a capital M for sure !

...someone at Associated was an Evil Knievel fan.

One of the earliest toys that I remember from 3 or 4, was the windup motorcycle. I went looking for a picture of one, and found Amazon is selling repro's for $50 right now.


They have Stretch Armstrong too now, unreal.



I've been looking at air brush gear, and for what I want, I need to part with some of my other collections first.
https://spraygunner.com/

Dang! You guys beat me to it. I just bought cans of red, white, and blue and have been trying to work out an Evel K scheme for my new ProCAT body.

The Associated ad is interesting. I don't remember that one. They were definitely fans of Evel Knievel or maybe Bob Glidden.

Obligatory Pinto joke.



When I look at all of the magazine art, or anything with the Viper body on it, it's always on the Team Car, black tub with white parts.

The actual boxart for the Late Stealth CE, is at the very least, not the color I would choose.


This one has been growing on me recently, with the orange and purple like the chassis.


I can't paint this well, for any of the magazine/boxart at this point, so I'll need to wait for something to occur. I'll trim and mount the clear Viper body and wing in the meantime, that needs to be done before painting anyhow.

Thanks again for the suggestions!