Hyperdrive H10 super glue special

[RC10th]

Phillips head screws on the pod? Interesting.

Too bad someone broke the hub.

[GeneralZod]

Apparently Phillips heads are the norm for these old cars. Those were, you guessed it, super glued in as well! Had to heat them up with soldering iron to boil the glue. Still had to bear down on the screws to back em out. I am leaning towards replacing them with stainless button heads to clean up the appearance. I am not keen on Phillips hardware for any car.

The hubs will still be used as my runners. I will try something else but will have to see how it fits for shelf duty. The real trick will be getting the diff to work smoothly once I get the darn thing apart!

[GoMachV]

His manual was from a later H10, so it shows the “diff centering kit” cone assembly that I had suspected it should have had. I think that was a Buds/BRP part. The thrust assembly is likely just the earlier production as seen in the pic posted before. Anyway, hope this helps. Thanks Danomite for the pics

[GeneralZod]

Perfect! Thanks! Looks like the H10 series parts didn't change too much from model to model. This will sure help, if he has time, would it be possible to post the full manual? I have to chase several threads with taps since some are cross threaded or needs cleaned. Knowing the size of the screws will help me choose the correct taps.

[Dadio]

Just thought i'd say we'r all rooting for you getting that diff apart

[GeneralZod]

Finally, the diff is apart. Super glue by the tons and everywhere, even inside all ball bearing except for two of them. Locked em up tight! I took the bearing shields off and peaked under a scope and they were full of glue. I had to laugh once I saw this. Delrin hubs fit tight on the axle even without glue so this was a real pita to get them off. Finally got them to free up and was greeted by this.

The axle tube has a section dremeled out so I will have to figure out a way to fix.

Now I know why when I got the car the diff felt a little "springy" while holding one wheel and rotating the other. I wonder if I can fix it. I will search for 1/4" carbon fiber rod and see what comes of it.

Another challenge is to extract this broken screw from one of the beam supports. Fun stuff!

[Coelacanth]

Man, what a project! If you can beat this challenge, you can do anything. Respect to you for your patience and persistence!

[GeneralZod]

A challenge yes, but I welcome it. I finally was able to remove the old axle from the diff housing. I had to heat up the housing with a heat gun and managed to twist it out with some effort! I have obtained some nice carbon fiber stock. I tested one rod on a flat glass surface and they are very straight and look to be nicely made. I will have to be creative and mill down one end so it fits inside the housing and reamains true. I never repaired one of these before so I am learning as I go.

[GeneralZod]

I thought I would try my Trinity motor lathe to turn down one end of the carbon rod. I swapped out the carbide tip used for comm cutting and put in a small dremmel grinding tip. It worked surprisingly well, it just took quite a few passes. Too deep of a cut resulted in the rod lauching itself across the workbench . Safety glasses a must while doing this! Had a fan blowing the dust away and a shopvac running near the grinding area. Once the end was the right diameter, it fit inside the hub well and seems that it will remain true after gluing with CA. Then I will clean up the hub with some fine grit sandpaper to clean up the burrs. I wish I had a decent benchtop lathe but this worked out ok for this learning experience.

[RC10th]

That's a pretty good effort, good job.

[Dadio]

Top job , well done !

[GeneralZod]

Thanks guys! With the rear axle done, I moved on to extract the broken screw from the front beam support. The screw was boken off at an angle and below the surface of the mount. I reached for a center punch to put a nice dimple on the screw. First strike with a hammer and checked the result. No dimple on the screw but did flatten the tip of my center punch! Wth? The screw seemed unusually hardened. Found another punch of better quality and managed to get a very small dimple to show up. Time to carefully drill. Again, the drill bit seemed unusually dull or this is one tough screw. I used several new bits all with same result. I then used some cutting oil with more bits and it finally began to drill very small amounts of metal. I worked to gradually increase bit sizes untill I began to see the old threads poking through. I then used old drill bits to gently spread open the mount clamp and tapped the side with a small hammer. This broke the remaining hold the screw had on the axle and I was able to slide the mount from the axle. I thought to myself, why is this little screw so hard that it dulled my punch and drill bits? I flipped over the axle and used a scope to look into the underside hole and found out the reason for this. It was no screw, rather it was an old drill bit that someone broke off while drilling out the hole! A few strong strikes with a hammer from the other side and it popped out.

[jwscab]

that looks like a tip of a self tapping screw, also known as a TEK screw. The tip of the screw looks like a drill and is very hard.

[Coelacanth]

Good job extracting that screw tip...you have a lot of patience and perseverence.

[GeneralZod]

that looks like a tip of a self tapping screw, also known as a TEK screw. The tip of the screw looks like a drill and is very hard.

It could very well be one of those screws. I didn't realize the tip of those screws are that strong. The center punch barely put a mark on it! Very tricky to drill these out without getting into the actual aluminum that surrounds it. This time it was spot on. At least now I can adjust the angle of the front axle.