Help needed re: fitting Ultima wheels to RC10

[stephenianjames]

Hi guys.

I'll soon be starting on my 'ultimate' RC10 build, comprising Fibrelyte tub, TPS chain transmission, white andy's arms front and rear etc.

I've just purchased a snazzy set of Pargu alloys for an Ultima (URL below). I probably should have done my research first, but I'm presuming fitting them shouldn't be too difficult. Having said that, I'd appreciate any advice on the easiest/neatest way of doing it.

Thanks guys,

Steve

http://www.pargustore.com/kyosho-ultima-alloy-wheels-2wd-c-type.html

[jwscab]

these may help:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057

as might these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN055&P=V

[Coelacanth]

There's a couple things you could do to get the fronts to work. The problem being AE uses standard-sized bearings while Kyosho uses metric-sized. The easy way out--but requires some modding--is to drill open the holes big enough to accept flanged AE bearings. Or, without drilling, you could try fitting in the closest AE bearing with correct I.D. axle hole, and using something around the outside of the bearings to get them to stick firmly in the wheel holes.

As for the rears, we need to know if those have the original Ultima's tapered holes to fit on tapered axles, or do they have 12mm hexes? If the latter, it should be pretty easy to get those onto an AE rear axle with hexes & crosspins. If they're tapered holes, I think you're out of luck.

[Phin]

8mm is practically the same as 5/16" so typical RC10 wheel bearings will work in the front. Old front wheels used to be labeled as fitting Kyosho and RC10 because the bearings OD were so close in size.

[jwscab]

true. 8mm is a couple thou bigger than 5/16" so worst case is you can use a small bit of sandpaper and open up the holes slightly to fit the bearing. They are aluminum and will require a bit of tweaking unless they are on the high side of tolerance.. plastic wheels would be able to just have the bearing stuffed in. I would advise against just sticking an 8mm drill bit in the hole. if you had an 8mm reamer that would be ideal.

[stephenianjames]

Thanks guys for the advice.

I guess I'll see if the rears are tapered or not once they arrive, whereas the front end is obviously pretty simple.

Cheers,

Steve

[1300GT]

Steve, look for Team CRP's front stub axle adaptors part number 1552. They replace the stock imperial stub axles with 5mm metric ones on the front. There's a set on Ebay now.

As for the rears, are you using 1/4" axles? If so Pargu makes a 12mm hex adaptor to fit them.

As others have said though, it depends on the rear wheels having hexes or being tapered.

[stephenianjames]

Thanks mate. You're a legend! Found them, bought them and they're on their way!

Cheers,

Steve

Steve, look for Team CRP's front stub axle adaptors part number 1552. They replace the stock imperial stub axles with 5mm metric ones on the front. There's a set on Ebay now.

As for the rears, are you using 1/4" axles? If so Pargu makes a 12mm hex adaptor to fit them.

As others have said though, it depends on the rear wheels having hexes or being tapered.