NIX91 Questions and Answers

[Niki]

I made some rear axle testings last night.

1. RC10 rear wheel conversion kit #6802 with #6370 dogbones works nicely (kit hub is #7364).
2. MIP #1198 CVD axles (for B2/B3) with #7364 hubs are perfect.
3. rere-RC10WC rear axle CVA is good but you have to cut off corner from rear arm where the red arrow is.

By the way look how good color that rear arm has. It's dyed with just track dust.

-Niki-

[tiger1]

My version, here you are... you can use existing edges and corners to guide your cut.

Thanks a lot

[jbmeyer13]

How can i get the natural nylon look with the shapeways material? It looks more pure white...

I used super diluted Rit dye to achieve the nylon look on my car. I conducted research through the Rit dye website which shows custom colors to find the shade that was close to what I needed.

I ended up mixing 1/8 teaspoon of yellow dye with 2 cups of water. Heated the mixture to approximately 180 degrees and dunked each shapeways part in the mixture for three seconds. Cold water rinse immediately then compared the shade to the AE parts.

If I do it again I will do a mixture of 1/16 teaspoon of yellow and 1/16 teaspoon of tan. The key to doing this is having a super diluted mixture that allows you to dunk the parts and then check the shade. You do this in increments to keep from over doing the color. The shapeways parts do take dye very easily.

Please note we have not ran a car with dyed parts so we are not sure how or if it will affect the durability. It should not but stranger things have happened.

Jake,

You would suggest the core colors not custom mix; correct? https://www.ritstudio.com/color-library/core-colors/

So basically 1/16 core yellow, 1/16 core tan and 2 cups of water with quick dunks to achieve correct shade. I assume the heating process is to help the parts absorb the dye but since they seem to absorb rather easily would it make sense to try this at normal room temperature rather than heating it up? Just wondering if that might make it easier to control the color.

Regards,

Justin

[Seabass]

The mixture of dye was from the core colors yellow and tan. I have never used fit dye without heat so I am not sure how well it would work. It would not cause any problems to conduct an experiment...it will either work or not. If it doesn't work at room temp, heat the mixture and repeat.

[fredswain]

I've started getting the first parts in and I just wanted to take a moment to compliment you guys on a job well done. Although I haven't seen everything yet, what I have seen tells me that technically speaking this version, and it's subtle refinements and improvisations, are going to equal a car that is probably better than the original. It is nice to see some of the measurements that I and Justin took to be the same which means we were, for a short time at least, on the right track.

[littleVETTE]

jake any pictures of the chassis kit that's being sold?

[Seabass]

I am taking pics of the kit contents now to upload to the Nix91 thread.

[littleVETTE]

excellent

[Seabass]

Pics of the kit contents are uploaded on the NIX91 FS Thread.

[Niki]

SLS parts: General notes.

I have made some findings while working with SLS parts. As parts are created layer by layer, in certain areas those layers will be visible. Even it's just a visual defect, it could be controlled with control of print direction. But in this case, I can not control it. Shapeways own manufacturing process does it. Print direction defines also how all holes prints out. If hole is perpendicular to print direction, it's round and sharp. If parallel to print direction, hole will have a shape of letter "D" when hole "roof" melts down when laser hits nylon powder. It's extra material, not missing anywhere else from actual part geometry. Best way for me to clean, for example hinge pin holes, was to use brand new high quality 1/8" or 3.2-3.3mm drill bit. SLS material is so viscous that old drills just don't work and hole will be smaller than wanted. Just hold SLS part in your hand - use electric screwdriver speed and let drill bit find its way through. It was easy and fast and provided really good result.

-Niki-

[slow_jun]

Is there a possibility of having a kit for racer?or shelfer(stock towers and not 3mm)?so that for racers they no longer will have to buy those stock ones that are not for racers in order to save a few bucks? Just asking,coz im pllanning in getting one and also ordering the more beefier towers and arms for racing,those buying for racing can save a few for those parts that will not ve used.

TIA.

[Seabass]

Unfortunately I do not have a "racer kit" so to speak. I sure wish I could accommodate everyone but it is just not feasible since I am doing all the kit work by myself and time is not exactly on my side since I also have a normal day job as well.

The race parts will follow shortly since I am finishing up the final kits now.

Jake

[Mark Westerfield]

GT rear hubs #7367 have two camber link mounting holes and about a half degree of toe-in for more tuning options.

[Niki]

My plan is to make "Complete SLS Set" for race use. Two front bulkheads 25 and 30, steering blocks, 4 versions of rear arm mounts. No arms. Ball bearing bellcranks must be kept separate because polishing process affects bearing fit tolerances. Bellcranks are black or white, not polished. For other parts full range of colors will be available.

-Niki-

[alien3t]

In the cnc thread,. Was said parts eventually will be offered sepratly. Areantt he wing mounts same as on the yokomo cars. Thats a great alternative then having to hunt them down since so rare?