Ruff 'n Tuff

[romulus22]

Ah yes. I didn't look hard enough to see that the tie rod is a part of the pivot arm. I just quick glanced and thought there was a ball joint there.

[Phin]

When I actually put this set up on a truck I don't plan on attaching the rocker arm directly to the camber link/caster blocks. Instead I will put a ball stud in the rocker where the tie rod goes and then attach a push rod from that ball stud to the shock mount holes on the arm.

[romulus22]

Like a typical cantilever shock setup? I think that's why I assumed there was a ball stud on the rocker arm. Just thought you were going a different route with it.

[Phin]

Yup, like a typical cantilever setup. The shocks will stay in the same basic crisscrossed position though.


On another note I figured out why I thought the DT arms were longer than the JG....the Robinson 18 degree casters are a few mm wider than the stock casters and knuckles. I can keep the Robinson set up and use 10T wheels, or go for stock steering and use old monster truck offset wheels.

[Phin]

Picked up a TPS chain drive a month or two ago that I want to use on one of these truck builds but the plastic bits are beat up and dyed, and would just ugly up the rest of the new parts on these cars. So I decided to try and make new side pieces for it out of delrin.

Don't have a CNC so using my drill press I took the same basic approach that gomachv does with his pin router and used the old side pod as a template.

Because of the thickness it required several passes, lowering the bit a little each time. Not the quickest method so only got one side mostly complete. I'm happy with it though.

[GoMachV]

Copy cat!

What bit are you using? I tried using my carbide bit that I use on g10 on some 6-6 nylon and...let's just say "it wasn't pretty"

That looks pretty nice!

[Phin]

Imitation is the highest form of flattery.

Just used a Dremel 1/8" square high speed cutter from the Home Depot. Cut smooth and easy as long as I only took off a mm or two of material on each pass.

[GoMachV]

The problem I was having was melting, it would cut really well like butter… And then it would melt back together LOL

I had my router turn down as far as it would go,

[Phin]

Had my drill press at 3100RPM.

Might be the delrin vs 6/6 nylon?

[Phin]

Got a few NIP parts for my JG SRT.

Big thanks to Spydur23 and aip47-2008 for helping me out with the rear tower and dog bones.


Really psyched to have found a set of rear arms. I was thinking about doing a Race Master Trailing link rear suspension to give the build a trophy truck look but the original arms are much better since I won't have to add extra holes in the chassis.

Unfortunately this now means that the B2 carpet arms up front aren't going to cut it and I'll have to keep an eye out for JG fronts.

[spydur23]

great home for that nip tower, rather than my bastard buggy! Looking good!

[Phin]

great home for that nip tower, rather than my bastard buggy! Looking good!

Thanks again.



Got the rear suspension put together.

[Blackangelofdeath]

I'm pumped at how this will turn out. I'm drawn to it like a moth to a bug light.

[spydur23]

Looks awesome! What shocks are those?

[Phin]

Scale Racing Sport (SRS) machined delrin shock bodies.

They use standard AE shafts, and bottom load shock seals to build but don't seem to have a way to put a large o-ring seal under the cap. Don't know if the SRS shocks used special caps or maybe bladders to seal the tops.

I'm not planning to fill the shocks with oil anyway but may get some yokomo bleader caps and CRP bladders to build them. May put some Paragon Jump Jet pistons in them for extra cool points too.