93 WCS poss ran at 93 Worlds UK? Magazine Feature!! :-D

[DerbyDan]

The pink you need is inbetween those two colours, I agree your original set looks faded

I'd be inclined to agree with you Matt... but then in this picture from the RRC article the wheel appears fairly pale;



...... but maybe darker than my OG wheels? What I find odd, is that plastics normally fade when exposed to UV light, yet these wheels if they have faded have faded uniformly throughout the moulding... even where tyres have been mounted

[R-NO]

Its difficult to judge the true colour of the wheels on Masami's car as the wheel dots cover most of them up..... but they do look more pink in the photo of JD Beckworth's car & on the photos of a 93 WCS I recieved from CML... but in both these last photos the colours in the photo seem over-bright??

That is just impossible to use pictures for color reference. First, there is the camera. A nikon or a Canon can give you the same picture, but with different colors. And then the way your screen is setup will also plays into the render, and everyone has a different screen. Not to mention that excepted the picture I posted which was taken with a digital camera, all other pictures are scans of films/prints, or even mags. Huge color variations! So really, picture reference is impossible.

I confirm your wheel has not faded, otherwise you would see color variations on surface. Period.

Reggie had found a pretty close color match using a combination of Rit Fushia and Tangerine Orange but never posted the exact ratio in the rctech forum

[YZ-10]

Exposed to UV and faded before tyres were fitted? or maybe its just how the photo came out

Re the article, problem is its photo in a scanned article the colours aren't true, the wheels are darker than your faded set but lighter than the ones you dyed, I guess only way for 'exact' colour is to have a set of new originals in your hands to compare and dye to that colour otherwise you're going from images.

[DerbyDan]

I confirm your wheel has not faded, otherwise you would see color variations on surface. Period.

I'm inclined to agree with you here R-No.... I un-glued the tyres that had been fitted to the original ribbed pink wheels & I would guess they had been on there for a good many years... even if fading had occured before the tyres had been fitted surely the areas still exposed would fade further still.

At the end of the day I have a set of original pink wheels - they seem to match R-NO's digital image of Masami's car (albeit a photo of his car in an 'aged' condition).... so these should be the wheels I use as a guide for my dyeing of the new white wheels.

And finally - proof that you can trick a camera into showing incorrect colouring, here is a picture of my WCS as is currently stands.... there's still quite a bit that needs to be done... but here it is..... drum roll!



Check out how bright those wheels are when in direct sunlight!!

[Charlie don't surf]

Reggie had found a pretty close color match using a combination of Rit Fushia and Tangerine Orange but never posted the exact ratio in the rctech forum

I am sorry Dan and R-N0, I had run like 15-20 different ratio's that day to "dial in" the color, and had all the test rims and parts in a ziploc bag with that ratio and dye time written on the parts- but I can only find the "wrong" parts bag, not the correct one I remember it was something close to ( Imperial ) 2 quarts water, 1/8 tsp of fushia and a pinch of the tangerine. Very very light color to the dye bath was the key as all the other amounts of dye in the water produced a very very very bold color on the rims. And it was a very quick soak at light boil, like 30 sec- any more and they 8 spokes came out too dark- I am still looking for the bag with the "right" test parts though!

[R-NO]

Reggie had found a pretty close color match using a combination of Rit Fushia and Tangerine Orange but never posted the exact ratio in the rctech forum

I am sorry Dan and R-N0, I had run like 15-20 different ratio's that day to "dial in" the color, and had all the test rims and parts in a ziploc bag with that ratio and dye time written on the parts- but I can only find the "wrong" parts bag, not the correct one I remember it was something close to ( Imperial ) 2 quarts water, 1/8 tsp of fushia and a pinch of the tangerine. Very very light color to the dye bath was the key as all the other amounts of dye in the water produced a very very very bold color on the rims. And it was a very quick soak at light boil, like 30 sec- any more and they 8 spokes came out too dark- I am still looking for the bag with the "right" test parts though!

Many thanks Reggie. Very much appreciated. I'll give it a try.

To Dan, take great care of your wing. The moulded yokomo wings tend to fade pretty quick under UV.
I have a white one in bag, that turned yellowish and a used orange one with stickers on. Once I removed a sticker and the difference of color was stricking. On a picture I posted earlier, you can also notice Masami's wing also turned very pale.

[GJW]

the rebuild is a credit to you dan, much respect mate! to see this original very nicely restored is just superb

[GJW]

mate what part number's did ya use??

pullies f/r
belt's
outdrive's

[DerbyDan]

Reggie had found a pretty close color match using a combination of Rit Fushia and Tangerine Orange but never posted the exact ratio in the rctech forum

I am sorry Dan and R-N0, I had run like 15-20 different ratio's that day to "dial in" the color, and had all the test rims and parts in a ziploc bag with that ratio and dye time written on the parts- but I can only find the "wrong" parts bag, not the correct one I remember it was something close to ( Imperial ) 2 quarts water, 1/8 tsp of fushia and a pinch of the tangerine. Very very light color to the dye bath was the key as all the other amounts of dye in the water produced a very very very bold color on the rims. And it was a very quick soak at light boil, like 30 sec- any more and they 8 spokes came out too dark- I am still looking for the bag with the "right" test parts though!

No probs Reggie - your description is a good starting point..... I can understand why the mix is so light... I was following a guide published in RC Car Action & used probably half of what they recomended in terms of the quantity of dye powder for those wheels shown in my photo & yet the colouring was almost instant! As you say 30sec was long enough but my wheels were probably in for about a minute

If you do find the bag with the best ratio mix parts in please let us know!

[DerbyDan]

the rebuild is a credit to you dan, much respect mate! to see this original very nicely restored is just superb

Thanks Gary, theres still a fair few bits to complete before I would say that its finished... in fact because of the rarity of some of the parts I need to finish it off i'm guessing it would be a continuing for quite some time/forever!

mate what part number's did ya use??

pullies f/r
belt's
outdrive's

I'm afraid I don't know the part No.s for these parts as they were all re-used from the original car (I think I sent you an email at one point with the number of teeth on the pulleys?)

One thing I do know is that the main belt seems to be unique..... & quite a bit longer than the one you sent to me (510mm). As previously described the belt that came with my car appeared to have been made up - its been cut down to get the correct width & seems thicker than a Yokomo Belt... this would tally being that the car should have come with M2 belts so in order to convert to M3 pulleys (like many/most racers would have) a special belt would have been needed - the one that has been re-fitted into my car is 578mm & is branded 'Gates' Powergrip who I believe supplied Schumacher with their belts.

The intention with my car was to use as few new parts as possible to keep the identitiy of what I feel is quite a unique car. Theres the odd new screw/nut & ball end here & there but the main new parts include the top deck, chassis, wheels & tyres, the Yokomo spoiler & eventually a new painted shell & undertray

@ R-No - thanks for the advice on my wing/spoiler - I have a yellow one on my World RC10 runner (see my Avatar pic) which i've had since the early 90s its still very much Yellow but has lost its vibrancy despite being hidden in a box for the past 15 or so years - I will be carefull with the orange one on my WCS I sure paid enough for it..... I see in the ebay section someone paid like a 1/4 of what I paid, for like 4-5 wings of the same type (just in AE packaging) in different colours including orange

[DerbyDan]

So this is one of the parts I would love to replace on this car - its the rear bulkhead cap, the part on my car although servicable has stress crack marks through it (not really picked up by the camera) I think caused by a miss-spacing of the rear tower bracket with the hole in the tower itself (I've had to add washers beneath this now to get it to reach properly) constantly wanting to pull the cap upwards. The holes that have been made to pick up the tie rod fixings are also rather ropey looking.

This is the part along with the layshaft cover... both these parts spent a good couple of weeks in the peroxide bath, but are still rather yellow;


To help support the cap & better locate the tie rod & tower fixing bracket I made up (well Fibrelyte made it to my drawing) this G10 plate to sit snugly inside, it is clearanced to miss the diff pulley & uses the fixings to secure it in position.


The finished assembly;

[DerbyDan]

Some small updates...

I got another set of wheels from Kenooze (thanks ) to have a 2nd chance at dying them pink.. I also brought some rose pink Rit dye, which is lighter than 'Fucsia'. I did quite a few test runs on some old/spare wheels & ended up with a fairly close match that I was happy with;

(could have done with a touch of orange maybe?)

So I went ahead & dyed my new Yokomo wheels, due to the size of my saucepan I was dying the wheels in pairs... my first pair went well & came out just as per the test B3 wheels, but I needed to make a new mix for the 2nd pair & for some reason despite being very careful with my quantites (I was adding just a dash of Fuscia with the mix) The rear wheels 'turned' much quicker & came out slightly darker than the fronts i'd just done... so I had to chuck them in for a short while so they match... the results though I say are ok, especially with the red wheel dots added

I then plucked up the courage to trim down the (expensive) orange wing to match the one on Masami's car.

I've also converted the shocks to run spacer clips rather than the AE collers (Thanks to YZ-10 [Matt] for the spacers) for height adjustment. They are now built up to match the Masami arrangement using some NIP YS-6 parts with white ball joints but with black spring seats (I dyed some white ones black rather than buy more parts )

I've still yet to fit the 2nd (revised) chassis that I had made, but here's some pictures of how the car currently sits;







(Sorry for the dark pics - it was a rather grey day & they were taken with my phone )

Oh & on Saturday I masked out the shell;

[GJW]

what a weapon dan, this just keep's getting better and better. is that a swann morton knife? been looking for one of those handle's

tell me this, if this buggy had 2mm belts what tooth pulleys and what front outdrive's were used?
the front housing uses small outdrive's with small diff rings in a 94 and i have never seen m2 pitch 94 pulleys, im told 51 m2 tooth are correct so what outdrives then?

[fakiee]

tell me this, if this buggy had 2mm belts what tooth pulleys and what front outdrive's were used?
the front housing uses small outdrive's with small diff rings in a 94 and i have never seen m2 pitch 94 pulleys, im told 51 m2 tooth are correct so what outdrives then?

It looks like M3 pitch up front to me?

[DerbyDan]

tell me this, if this buggy had 2mm belts what tooth pulleys and what front outdrive's were used?
the front housing uses small outdrive's with small diff rings in a 94 and i have never seen m2 pitch 94 pulleys, im told 51 m2 tooth are correct so what outdrives then?

It looks like M3 pitch up front to me?

Yes... its been established that my car has the in-correct M3 belts...... As Gary says the M2 pitch belts are correct.

I'm afraid Gary, all I can help you with is what I know from this car... the pulleys are both 35 teeth (for M3 belts obviously.... I don't know how these translate into the finer pitch?). As for outdrives, the front ones I assume have got to be the same as a 94 or later YZ-10 since it uses the same plastic bulkhead assembly?? - The rears the same as at Works 91/92/93 car???