'Fun Buggy' RC10 - Graphite, mid mount Stealth, brushless

[Jeep-Power]

Vintage-

yeah-- it is a lot more stable & certainly more aggressive looking. It sucks up the bumps amazingly well.


It seems to track pretty well. I have a T3 that has the same motor & battery-- it fishtails (oversteers) a bit more than this car. The two different cars handle the bumps a bit differently as well-- on some, this buggy is better, on others the T3 is better. I have the dampening quite on the loose/soft side on this car. The T3 has heavy dampening-- it has the setup that it had for dirt track racing (oval I think).

The battery being mounted laterally forward does seem to help keep the nose down-- again, when compared to the T3. the T3 wheelies constantly!

NOTE: I do most of my running on the grass/field.

Some of the latest work-

The nose was diving hard in turns & lifting the inside rear tire-- so a swaybar was in order. The swaybar itself is OEM RC10 Goldpan stock, the swaybar mounts/reatiners I fabbed out of hunks of aluminum, & the upper ball-ends I had in the parts bin-- no idea what they are off of, but they are metric.



Detail of the front end re-drill-- I'm not crazy about it, because it certainly looks weak with all those holes. I removed the bumper because it seems to dig-in & flip the car on nose-down landings (again, this might be due to the super-soft front dampening) {EDIT_ ended up putting it back on, as the CF was getting hammered!]



I had a B4 trans & stole the slipper off of it-- works great!




I happen to pick up a set of NIP 'improved' Associated rear arms-- figure why not...


The body issue is settled, for now... my apologies to those who wanted a buggy body. My buddy gave me the T3, and about 5 bodies to go with it-- this one fit well on the RC10. Free is good for me. I really want to put a buggy body on it-- just have to spring for a new one that I can cut for the repositioned rear tower. Someday...





The front tires also came with that T3-- they fit right on here & I figured I'd try them out. I may go back to the buggy fronts...

I turned the paddles around in an effort to cut down on rear traction.

I'm running into overheating issues on the motor/ESC, hence the two holes in the windshield.. The spur/pinion ratio is about 4.10:1. I'm thinking about getting some of those heatsink/fan combos. It was about 90* out, I'm sure that doesn't help. Any suggestions? What fan setup are there for the Mamba Max?

[SnoopMaxx]

Looks stunning
Oh the upper rod ends look just like the ones I have from Tamiya

[Jeep-Power]

I'm prepping this thing for some Vintage AE inspired North Carolina beach runs over Thanksgiving-- a metal idler gear in the trans & some rear shock tuning is all that is left to do.

I ended up running Proline double beadlocks (of R/C rock crawling fame) on the rear tires-- the glue seems to let go no matter how much glue I put on the rim/tire.

I'm still having a problem with the dogbones popping out of the transmission drive cups-- I have to severly limit the downtravel, in order to keep them from popping out. I have the axles shimmed in as much as possible, any suggestions? They are the AE CV dogbones.

[vintage AE]

looks like you are using 10T arms, Atlas mounts (which shouldn't change anything too much) and 10T CV bones, it should work without any issues.

try using some nitro tubing on the shock shaft on the inside of the shock as a limiter, but you already said you limited the down travel, huh. I'm just typing out loud, lol...maybe something will come to me, but I guess something else must be wrong.

[Jeep-Power]

Yeah-- I can't figure it out. I've switched up just about everything-- drive cups, dogbones (had the smae issue with the short rear arms & dogbones), chassis arm mounts, arms, etc.

I'm considering cutting these bones using a tube to make them a hair longer-- all I need is 1/16" or so. The only issue I see is that the pins will then bottom-out in the drive cup slots-- so some limiting in up-travel might be needed...

[vintage AE]

sounds like it's a problem with your shocks. Your shouldn't have any issues using the factor setup with Atlas mounts. What shocks are you using?

[Mr. ED]

This car is starting to make lot more sense to me now. The truck front wheels and body really make it look better

[vintage AE]

This car is starting to make lot more sense to me now. The truck front wheels and body really make it look better

x2, like the look of it a lot now!

what body is it?

[Jeep-Power]

Thanks folks-- I'd like to get a buggy body on it, but other projects have been taking priority.

It is a Proline T3 body-- my buddy gave me 5 or so painted bodies with a T3. The one shown above is now in the trash-- they just get shredded with the wheelies & high speed crashes.

sounds like it's a problem with your shocks. Your shouldn't have any issues using the factor setup with Atlas mounts. What shocks are you using?

They are factory shocks. Yeah-- I can't figure out where the loss in length is. I had the same issue with the AE mounts, so Atlas is off the hook. I might just be looking for more droop/downtravel than the OEM geometry was intended to give.

[adam lancia]

What rear hubs are you using? If they're not the stock hubs, that could be a source of the issue. Also, if you've got space, you could space the stub axle further in towards the transmission, that'll move the dogbone end further into the outdrive.

[Jeep-Power]

Adam- I tried the spacers-- have them about as far as they can go.

hmm-- the rear blocks-- I think I've tried a few different setups-- the ones that came with the 10T & also stock gold-pan parts.

I will have to sit down with it all & do some detailed comparisons...

Thanks you all for the suggestions/ideas!

[Jeep-Power]

Out on the beach today-- WOW was that fun!

Ended up blowing the intermediate gear. A new RR steel is now in place.

A little video-- it doesn't really do justice, but I hope you get an idea of how much fun these are!

The green-white is this RC-10 that I was driving. The Yellow buggy is the T-3 that my brother was driving. It's tricky to drive & shoot video!

a little rooster tail & wheelie action from the T-3

[vintage AE]

looks like fun! i know what it's like to be the one holding the camera and driving at the same time, it's not easy.

[SnoopMaxx]

looks like fun! i know what it's like to be the one holding the camera and driving at the same time, it's not easy.

I have done that for the last 4 years
I also have a few camera brackets that mount to the radio or car's


Morten

[Jeep-Power]

I picked up a RC10GT Roller with a TON of extra parts- looks like I'm stocked for life now.

Has anyone converted the GT trans to electric?

It had a brand new set of CVD's with the smaller axles, so they went in.

The GT bodys fits alot better than the T3 body-- as the GT had the rear placed shocks/mid mounted transmission too.


in other news:
I did a bit of comparing & found what seemed to be causing my dogbone-falling-out problem.

I am using RC10 rear suspension blocks on the 10T arms & shafts. The RC10 blocks position the hinge pins a bit lower on the chassis than the 10T blocks. It looks to be an 1/8" or so difference. So I shimmed the RC10 blocks higher, with stacked washers between them & the chassis. This, in effect, shortens the horizontal length of the arm & brings the dogbone further into the drive cup. It isn't much, but it is enough to keep the pins in the grooves at full droop (when the shaft makes contact with the arm, down near the CVD).

I have run a 3S Lipo through this setup & no problems yet!

This now allows for full droop and therefore more suspension travel. I am getting alot less rear hop at full speed and am now focusing on shock tuning. Very happy!

Updated pics to come